Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have taken the standard headunit out of my gtr to find a mess of wires behind (from a previous stereo). My problem is that when i test each of the wires for a battery wire I don't find anything with the digi meter.

Going by standard Nissan Wiring it should be black w/ red stripes but these provide nothing (I found 2 ??).

I checked all the fuses under the steering column individually and they are all fine.

Any ideas at all?

TIA Jon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85476-help-with-head-unit-install-query/
Share on other sites

blk/red is the antenna trigger. are the factory plugs still on it?

you should have 4 twisted pairs of wires. these are front and rear. the gtr has that annoying amp in the rear shelf that should have been bypassed already.

red/blu is lights , should be a blue/? one that is +12v key and the other one should be a red..

( haven't worked on a skyline for a few weeks so I can't remember the colours.)

if the plugs are still on it buy an adapting plug and use that. makes life easier.

Thanks for the quick replies.

The factory unit was working when I removed it

The original plugs are all gone.

I will try and investigate further now.

After testing every wire I cannot find a +12v battery, what other things could I try?

worst case senario you could always just run a new wire from your battery..

.. have you been able to measure 12v on the ignition and lighting leads? might sound silly, but are you sure you have a good ground for your multimeter?..

cheers,

damo

You sure your using your multimeter correctly? You'd wanna have it on the 20v setting, then be testing each wire with your red probe, whilst always having your black probe grounded (could use your earth wire for the HU if u know which one it is, or the cigarette lighter, or even the headunit chassis is usually earthed also).

Best of luck,

Nasha

there is 12V memory there. you have a blown fuse. do a physical check ( remove and inspect.) every fuse. you shouldn't have an interior light currently. the fuse you are after should be outside.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...