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hey guyz i just wanna open up this topic to get info on how to mod my r32, i'm to cars but i've always loved cars now i own my own turbo car (nissan skyline r32 gtst) so i wanna kkow eveything there is to knowo about this car and its eengine and what it can do thanx heaps guyz!

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more boost does not equal more power. it does however mean more heat. so take that into consideration before just "more boost" theory from your mates :). if you can make the engine breath easier then its more efficient and can wind the turbo in quicker (aka reduce lag). a nice 3" split dump pipe and 3" hiflow cat and 3" exhaust will certainly help that. if it breathes more it will flow more and come on earlier.

The basic near std mods that are safe and shouldn't even require it to be thrown on a dyno..

FMIC, Exhaust, new larger fuel pump (bosch or gtr), bleeder, copper spark plugs .8mm gap (NGK BCPR6E).

Dial in 15psi, set ignition timing to 15degree's and it should run fine providing injectors are fine.

Edited by Cubes

15psi is fine on the rb20det.

RB25det I wouldn't go past 12psi.

My RB20DET turbo ran 1bar and towards the end 1.1bar for 100,000km's. (170,000km's total)

I've always believed heat is the killer of the ceramic turbine wheel, not

so much overspeeding as on the rb20det 15psi is not overspeeding.

Dial in 20psi and you may see overspeeding but to be honest, if its not tuned I'd lay bets the heat will get to it first, heat being generated by a lean detonating mixture. :D

Lean mixtures create high egt's, retarded ignition timing creates high egt's.

So.. Run it richer and dial in more ignition timing = cooler egt's. Better for the turbo.

Edited by Cubes

what do u guyz mean about psi, and where do i dial in a psi btw i have a r32 so yeah anything to do with it plz let me know cause its my first time driving a turbo and a rear with drive

also i dont have the money thats why i got a r32 :P cheap car i can spend the rest of my money on minor mods :)

The basic near std mods that are safe and shouldn't even require it to be thrown on a dyno..

FMIC, Exhaust, new larger fuel pump (bosch or gtr), bleeder, copper spark plugs .8mm gap (NGK BCPR6E).

Dial in 15psi, set ignition timing to 15degree's and it should run fine providing injectors are fine.

so where do i get all these parts and what do each parts do for the car, any suggestions where i can get these parts cheap thanx

what do u guyz mean about psi, and where do i dial in a psi btw i have a r32 so yeah anything to do with it plz let me know cause its my first time driving a turbo and a rear with drive

also i dont have the money thats why i got a r32 :P cheap car i can spend the rest of my money on minor mods :)

PSI is the boost it runs.

There's no point upping the boost unless you have an exhaust.

Running simply an exhaust with the std. intercooler I wouldn't run more than 12psi.

Replace the stock intercooler with a larger front mount item, you can then run slightly higher boost.

Before you do anything Do a bit of searching via the search button. :)

Learn what everything is and means.

Do a bit of googling also.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question122.htm

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/horsepower.htm

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm

Edited by Cubes

thanx guyz for the tips but just wanna ask another thing what do u guyz mean about when u talk about 1bar of boost, cause i thought that psi is boost then what is this bar thing can someone explain

I Don't know how much patience cubes has, but seriously man, u jus gotta start reading everything u can to find out about turbos n the rest. FAQ sections are very good. Its helpful to know how the engine works, how the turbo works, and how these components interact as a system.

howstuffworks is an awesome site, any one who doesn't think its worthwhile is ignorant.

I got an r32 gts-t coupe, it boosts 10 pounds (PSI) stock. When people say 0.8 bar or something like that, its a fraction of the 14.7 pounds mentioned before. 10 pounds in BAR would be just under 0.7 BAR (10/14.7)

The whole pound thing is that 1 BAR is what is atmospheric is. It is also what non-turbo cars drive around with. Your average non-turbo car mixes 14.7 parts of air to 1 part of fuel. Turbos force more air into the engine than the normal atmo engine, so if we boost 10PSI more thats around a 75% increase making our little 2lt much more powerful. Keep in mind, that the more boost, the more fuel is compensated by the car. Basically, the more air and fuel you can cram in your engine on 1 stroke, the better. As mentioned before, the cooler it is, the better.

You should find something like that on howstuffworks.com amongst many other useful informations.

Lastly, if you don't already have a turbo timer, get one or take it easy the last few minutes of your journey otherwise you will damage your turbs over time. Keep your car regularly serviced. If you got shit fuel economy (400km to a tank or less) change your oxygen sensor (search for a post on it). Cops love to pull skylines over: if you get pulled over, don't talk too much, and try and see if the cop is dopey with cars so you can trick him out of defecting you which leads me to this - try and keep your as obviously roadworthy as possible.

Edited by SuAvE-1

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