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For the guys that have ordered kits, all of the items are ready except for the springs. They are due late this week, we have had to wait for the scheduled production run at the manufacturer. Yes, "we", as I am going to stick a set in my Stagea to replace the standard springs. I already have the rest of the kit.

I am going to put the R33GTR rims (17 X 9 +30) on the Stagea and they were too close to the rear, lower spring seat for me to take any more height out of it. I could have used the (standard Bilstein rear) pressed steel lower spring seats instead of the alloy ones (standard Bilstein front). That would have let me use one extra groove (lower), but it would have not quite been enough to get the height right. So it's Whiteline spring time for me.

StageZilla, that is something you may have to look out for, depending on the offset of the wheels you are using.

:) cheers :O

Here is my order:

Stabiliser bar adjustable Front 229

Stabiliser bar adjustable Rear 229

Caster Kit 115

Rear Camber kit 128

Front Camber kit 277

Subframe lock and alignment 110

Total $1088.00

-5% = $1033.60

I'll PM Sk with details

Here is my order:

Stabiliser bar adjustable Front 229

Stabiliser bar adjustable Rear 229

Caster Kit 115

Rear Camber kit 128

Front Camber kit 277

Subframe lock and alignment 110

Total $1088.00

-5% = $1033.60

I'll PM Sk with details

Actually cheaper than that Emanual, you have left the freight in. Orders over $500 are freight free. PM sent to confirm the pricing.

:) cheers :O

I thought I might post up some pictures of the standard Stagea springs versus the Whiteline coils. This is the front;

Front_Springs_Comparo.jpg

As you can see the Whiteline coils are quite bit shorter with a higher spring rate. They have to be shorter by at least 30 mm to give the lower ride height. Plus shorter again to make up for the higher spring rate, as the stronger rate holds the car up higher.

This is the rear;

Rear_Springs_Comparo.jpg

As you can see the Whiteline rears have 3 coils of progressive (softer rate), these close up on installation and give a higher effective spring rate. They have to be there so that the spring remains trapped at full droop.

:D Cheers :O

PS; A few guys have asked me about the front brake hose bracket and how to hold it in place. So I have posted up some pictures in the Stagea Suspension thread.

Edited by Sydneykid
woot! sounds like its not too far away now :D

YUP - same here... as soon as I can sell my VR V8 (been advertised for soooooo long now, modified, 118000ms, 215kw, cheap as!) Im going to order some parts for the suspension, pretty much like Emanuelt's order. Im going to do half this year and half later next year! (tell you the truth, I think my shocks and springs are ACE as is!)

Brendan

wait till u see the springs commin off my car...

i dunno what they did when they did compliance.. but ive got 4 collapsed springs...... happy days almost

Really?? Wow, thats not good..........

Im really impressed with the current suspension, ie levels of handling, not too firm nor too soft, not too low nor too high, etc.

Brendan

YESSSSSSS The kits arrived today. 2 out of 2 come first then 1/2 hour later package 1/2 arrived. I will be installing them within the week. They look great quality.

As for people not sure about safty by paiding first I'll back SK 100% excewllent!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! its werth it....

I'll post some pics when I've installed the kits, hope its not too hard to do myself.

post-17478-1127902415.jpg

YESSSSSSS The kits arrived today. 2 out of 2 come first then 1/2 hour later package 1/2 arrived. I will be installing them within the week.  They look great quality. 

As for people not sure about safty by paiding first I'll back SK 100% excewllent!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  its werth it....

I'll post some pics when I've installed the kits, hope its not too hard to do myself.

Check out the Stagea Suspension thread, I have added a few more pictures over the last couple of days as I have installed the Whiteline springs. Tried to answer a few questions people have asked me along the way.

:( cheers :)

OK I installed the rear sway bar today and have a couple of questions. I'm just not sure how much thread is ment to be exposed when i tighten things up, show in pics.

Went for a quick drive with just the rear upgraded, no body roll but now more wheel screech around corners.

Also Sk do you have any pics where the front and rear caster, camber and sub frame alignment are ment to go as I really need pics to help me out when I do them, the more detailed the better as I prefer to install them going off a pic of it already done.

Thanks very much...........

post-17478-1127902833.jpg

post-17478-1127902961.jpg

post-17478-1127903051.jpg

post-17478-1127903135.jpg

post-17478-1127903222.jpg

post-17478-1127903277.jpg

1. OK I installed the rear sway bar today and have a couple of questions.  I'm just not sure how much thread is ment to be exposed when i tighten things up, show in pics.

2. Went for a quick drive with just the rear upgraded, no body roll but now more wheel screech around corners.

3. Also  Sk do you have any pics where the front and rear caster, camber and sub frame alignment are ment to go as I really need pics to help me out when I do them, the more detailed the better as I prefer to install them going off a pic of it already done.

Thanks very much...........

Suggestions follow;

1. It doesn't matter, the only thing you need to be aware of is the clearance to the exhaust system, where the bar bends in a "U" shape to clear it. If you have the links too short, the bar will hit the exhaust system on big bumps on a lowered Stagea. If you have the links to long the bar will hit the exhaust system when the rear suspension droops on normal height Stageas. From the pictures you have it pretty much central, which is OK.

2. Yep, that's what happens when you increase the antiroll. Try a few extra pounds in the tyres. The wheel alignment, via the adjustable bushes, will help of course.

3. I don't really have any pictures of installing bushes. The instructions are pretty good and once you have the parts off the car (that the bushes need to be replaced in) it is pretty obvious where they go.

The caster bushes (KCA332) go in the front of the radius rods and replace the rubber bushes that are already there.

The Front camber bushes (KCA348) go in the ends of front upper control arms and replace the rubber bushes that are already there.

Similarly the Rear camber bushes (KCA347 ) go in the ends of the rear upper control arms and replace the rubber bushes that are already there.

The rear subframe bushes go between the standard bushes and the mounts (as per the instructions). They don't replace the standard rubber bushes.

I do have some pictures of the standard components, if I get time tonight I will post them up with arrows where the bushes go.

:huh: cheers :)

Got the R33GTR wheels fitted up today with some Hankook 245/40/17's. LOOKS PHAT, well that's what I have been told. The digi camera is in Canberra today and tomorrow, as soon as it comes home I will take some pictures and post them up.

As previosuly posted I have put the Whiteline springs in with the spring seats in their standard position. It is sitting at 345 mm (centre of wheel to guard) on the front and 335 mm on the rear. That gives a 15 mm rake (nose down) towards the front, which looks purposefull.

I had the 4 X R33GTR wheels and 8 tyres in it today, plus an R33GTST gearbox and a passenger, it was very low in the rear. Since it carries loads a lot and tows the race car, I might raise it up one circlip groove (8mm) both front and rear. That will preserve the rake at 15mm, which I like.

The 245/40/17's look a little small in diameter in the guards, Stageas have big arches. So I think 245/45/17's would look better and fill the guards a bit more. I will try that sizing on the next set of tyres.

:O cheers :)

1. Front sway bar was very easy to install.  They really makes a massive difference for cornering!!!!!!!!

2. I had a look where the caster kit goes, i take it I need to take the arm off and get it pressed out and new one pressed in?

1. Yep, swaybars are the best bang for buck handling upgrade you can do.

2. Yep (again), remove the radius rod, press the standard rubber bush out and replace it with the Whiteline adjustable bush.

:) cheers :)

Could i remove the radius rod bush, and burn out the old bush?

Meaning, just cover it it turps and melt/burn it out...as i dont have access to a press..

Do i need a press to put in the whiteline bushes?

Reference : http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/suspension/fdaizenkit.html

Could i remove the radius rod bush, and burn out the old bush?

Meaning, just cover it it turps and melt/burn it out...as i dont have access to a press..

Do i need a press to put in the whiteline bushes?

Reference : http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/suspension/fdaizenkit.html

You could burn the old rubber bushes out, oxy works great but the burning rubber smells real bad and makes a lot of thick black smoke.. The crush tube (centre) just falls out when the rubber burns. When it cools you can cut the outer shell with a hack saw. It then will pretty much fall out, maybe give it a tap with a hammer and cold chisel to help it along.

You really do need a press to put the Whiteline bushes in, they need about 5 tonnes to get them moving.

Personally I would take it along to my local machine/suspension shop and get the old bushes pressed out and the new ones pushed in. Usually $50 cash does the trick, well worth it. If you are doing other bushes, you can rent a press from your local Wrechair/Coates/National/Ace/Kennards for a similar amount. Make sure you get the right size press tools to fit the bushes.

:) cheers :)

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