Jump to content
SAU Community

External Ignitor Urgent Q. Please Help


lukevl
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi I have a VVT Rb25 head (Not sure if its S1 or S2) It has the ignitor on top of the rocker cover. I got a wiring loom from another RB25.

Q1. My Ignitor output has the pins in the following order 1 -2 - 3 - Earth - 4 -5 -6. Is this correct? My wiring Harness goes 1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 -Earth. I can change the pins but I need to know wether to believe the box.

Q2. The arrow on the ignitor goes the wrong way. It points back towards the computer. is this right?

Q3. 6 pins into ignitor, 7 pins out (6 signals and earth). Correct?

Please help

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1. The pins to the INPUT are 1-2-3-E-5-6-7. Note that this is only pin numbering. They are actually in firing order. i.e. Pin 1 = Cyl 1, P2 = C5, P3 = C3, P4= Earth, P5 = C6, P6 = C2, P7 = C4.

2. Nope. The arrow definately points to the coils.

3. Nope. 7 pins into the ignitor - 6 signals from the ECU and an earth. 6 outputs - to the 6 coils. The power to the coils is via the white wire from the ignition relay.

This pic should help........

rb25diagram5kq.th.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Monsta. It helped. BUT I have a genuine Nissan coil loom with a 7-pin plug on it- 6 coils and an earth. And I have the other plug which is 6 pins and I assume went to the computer.

So some RBs (Rb20 or different series Rb25) must have 6 pins in and 7 pins out with a different ignitor, and some vice versa

Link to comment
Share on other sites

luke on the ECU side of my ignitor there's 7 pins - 1 2 3 G 4 5 6 as you describe. on the coil side there's six pins, each to one coil.

there are, however, two large guage wires on a separate 2-pin plug which bypass the coil and plug into the loom further up. i assume one of these is a ground and one is a switching signal for the tacho input or something that the ECU needs.

edit: your motec diagram is the opposite to what mine appears to be. maybe the GTR ignitor is different to the GTS-T ignitor?

Edited by StockyMcStock
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have the same ignitor as me Niel. I'm guessing the arrow points towards the coil on yours. I think i have figured this out people.

NOTE: Some RBs have an ignitor which has 6 pins in and 7 pins out (thats my harness) and some have it the other way around.

Niel the three wires are; white- coil power, one black one is earth for coils and one is coil one negative signal for what I assume is tacho.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Luke, I find it hard to believe Nissan would change wiring looms/ignitors on the same model & series of engine. I bought my R33 RB25DE engine for the conversion complete with the loom, so i'm sure that what i've mentioned earlier is correct. i.e the arrow DEFINATELY points in the direction of the coils. Maybe you've been given the coil loom off an RB20 or something?

This pic may help.......you can see that the wires at the bottom plug go in under the valley cover. The cables running over the ignitor are for the coil feed and tacho test point.

post-9286-1125713874.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Monsta that is just what I needed to see. And yes Nissan did have a 6 pin in, 7 pin out ignitor. Rb20 is like this with the wiring 123456E; as opposed to having the earth inbetween 3&4.

I will now re-pin the connectors so I have 6 out and I'm set. Thanks monsta

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Took a little trip  went to nismo hoping the get my fuel tank hoses and unfortunately they told me they didn’t have stock luckily I was able to go to a Nissan parts store and they were able to order them in for me  then can home and cleaned the tank with some degreaser and fitted the new hoses before putting it back in the car 
    • 100% I’ll hack into the 33. Strap a turbo onto the RB25DE and/or put the 25 head on a 30 block. 33 passed in cos the reserve was too high. I’ll try lowballing it again and negotiate. Aim is to have it landed and on the road for under 15k, then spend the same amount on top in mods.
    • It's generally best practise to run 1x run without VCT enabled, then 1x run enabled till redline. Overlay the two torque graphs and you'll find the desired RPM to turn off VCT. Sometimes, it might be even worthwhile turning off VCT earlier control torque/cylinder pressure and using VCT purely to spool the turbo.
    • They sell them in Malaysia for about $4
    • First time I ever have issues with Amazon, but my wife often tells me to keep an eye out for fakes. It finally got me. I wrapped up the conversation with Gates. The gentlemen I was talking to seemed to hate his job but the response time on their technical support is outstanding. He stated that the hose is marked with some variation of "SAE J30R10" but that if you only purchase a 1 foot length like I did, it is possible to get a cut between markings and have a blank hose. To no ones surprise, he stated the swelling and "gummyness" isn't normal and to replace/buy from somewhere else (He mentioned NAPA). I'll toss a small end of the new one in gas for a few days before pulling the hanger out again, just to be safe.  Hose should arrive Monday. For those running multiple pump in tank hangers, you know the joys of getting them out and back in. I'm surprised I haven't destroyed my level float yet.  Lastly once I wrap all of this up, I'm planning on hitting the dyno again in 2 weeks while I'm on vacation. I realized recently that my VCT is set to turn off at 5000RPM. I'm surprised it wasn't increased while I was on the dyno last. I'm expecting I can increase it to ~6500RPM, if not more. Should hopefully get another 15-20kw out of it. I also want him to revisit my knock thresholds. I'm occasionally getting false knock around 3000rpm. 
×
×
  • Create New...