Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey sup.

"Turbo Back" includes dump pipe. A split pipe is a dual piped dump pipe, one for turbine outlet and one for internal wastegate.

Talk to an exhaust shop. I have seen stainless split dumps on eBay for skylines - however, I have had exhausts shops write them off, they crack. They recommend a mild steel version.

...

i've got one of those stainless split dump which you replace the stock dump with in my car, and only just installed not too long ago

in theory, it helps holding the boost at higher revs, but i could only feel a bit of difference along with the slight difference in exhaust note

maybe it's because the seperation is too short like what SK said

construction looked quite solid but i hope it doesn't crack

has anyone else bought one of these?

I had HKS split dump, quite old bought 2nd hand and when I bought it, it doesnt seem to crack and works well (keep exhaust still reasonably quiet)... So I guess even stainless steel is prone to cracking compared to mild steel, it also all depends on the quality of the product. Most cheaper stainless steel items on ebay looks like HKS rip offs made in china, so maybe it'll not be as strong as the original one.

the measurement of the main pipe in the hks style split dump turned out to be approx 2.5 inch

but think about it this way. at high rev when the engine needs the exhaust fumes to dissipate fast, while the turbo exhaust is coming out of the main 2.5 inch pipe, the wastegate gas is coming out from the seperate split pipe.

that sounds better to me than having the exhaust from the turbine and wastegate both dumped into a 3 inch pipe, especially when you take turbulance into consideration.

Sorry for hi jacking the thread but now im interested in this stainless steel cracking business?? Is it recommended that mild steel split dump is used?? Im regards to the cat back section,would it be a good idea to get the mild steel piping with a stainless cannon muffler??

Edited by R33_Series2Lover

i hope my exhaust wont end up cracking i just got a nur spec R system i think its the bees knees thou tig welding i doubt it will be cracking soon... being cat back it wont get as hot back there thou i was looking at getting one of thos batmbl split dump and front pipes... i want stainless because all the pipes look cool as in chrome from behind!

From what I have been told when speaking to exhaust shops, cheap stainless steel dumps can crack.. If the ex shop were to custom make a dump, they were going to make it out of mild steel. You get what you pay for in the end. I would very much doubt that a HKS stainless dump would crack.

The exhaust temp from the cat back is alot cooler so there is far less of a problem with cracks...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...