Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

picture7np.jpg

I dont really care, i would have expected it, just to any new stagea buyers, even if they say its got 70,000 on the clock, like mine does now, dont trust it

Just coz its a small country, and a digital KM counter, it can still be wound back...

PS. Now i know why my trans is in such bad condition (at least i am a car enthusiast and plan rebuild+to replace most parts anyway)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87300-service-stickers-i-found-on-my-car/
Share on other sites

Oh also, i doubt the timing belt had been changed, and the high KM's could also explain why many stagea drivers experiance bad fuel economy of a drastic kind

The guys with stageas with 13L/100 could be the ones that get the REAL early km ones.. oh well!

Hi all...long-time browser 1st time poster,

I thought this'd be a good post to jump in on, having owned many cars of different brands with a fair whack of imports among em.

Firstly, just to add to your suspicion..that looks like a fairly old sticker.

When I was looking @ r33's I saw a hell of a lot of s1 car with supposedly under 100k on the clock...Pfffft no service books, stickers and general trim wear screamed different.

I ended up buying a late 94 with 114k on the clock instead of any of the dozens of 60-90k cars available..why? because it was the only honest car outta the lot, delivery/service books, cam/service stickers, trim wear and general condition all telling the same story. Also just to add further all the "low K cars" w/out history were looser in body/suspension, driving to me like a 150-200+k cars would.

It really makes me giggle that people believe Japan is full of 8+ yr old cars that have all travelled between 4-8k per yr. Advise to all, have an open mind..the odometer lies more often than not, look at the cars condition more than it's klms and fear heavily modded imports that aren't show cars..they weren't built/modded that way just to sit in the shed and be looked at, they've been driven-driven often and often driven hard..

To my mind anything thats done around 10k per yr is low, most cars that's odo say they done less have been wound back or had after market 300kph speedos fitted for the best part of their onroad lives, reverting back to the stock speedo when it's time to sell. I'm not saying you cant find a genuine car that has done 4k per yr all it's life..But what I am saying is that they truely are rare and if you do ever see one.. the car would be so fresh you'd almost be able to smell it!! Not like the ones that the importers yards are full of..LIES!!

Edited by madbung
picture7np.jpg

I dont really care, i would have expected it, just to any new stagea buyers, even if they say its got 70,000 on the clock, like mine does now, dont trust it

Just coz its a small country, and a digital KM counter, it can still be wound back...

PS. Now i know why my trans is in such bad condition (at least i am a car enthusiast and plan rebuild+to replace most parts anyway)

Thats a real shame - bad luck.

I asked my workshop to determine if the kms on my Stagea seemed genuine and it was the consensus that the total allround condition of the Stagea has in fact travelled around the 80000km mark, but you can never be too sure.

Brendan

Oh, i aint upset about it or anything... i just wish i knew the real figure...for services and stuff like that

The car definatly looks in damn good condition, the body is straight and the interior is in very good condition, so i aint fussed...

Just giving a warning to everyone thats all...

In NZ you can get the odometer verified. It might pay to see if someone can do the same in Oz.

I got mine with 113,000 and full Japanese servicing records (log book). Can't read Japanese, but km's are readable, and they match the verified odometer.

This was a big problem in NZ a while ago. Lots of Jap imports had the clock wound back. Not so much now, most dealers get the odometer verified and have certificate.

Oh, i aint upset about it or anything... i just wish i knew the real figure...for services and stuff like that

The car definatly looks in damn good condition, the body is straight and the interior is in very good condition, so i aint fussed...

Just giving a warning to everyone thats all...

re the real figure

pm me the details of the car ,date of purchase & chassis #

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...