Jump to content
SAU Community

Climate Control

Haysey

By Haysey,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

race_snooze Grand Master

race_snooze

Posted
Posted

12 volt dc 10amp (normal dash lights) dropped to 1.5 volts (LED) 1mA something like that so you will need to find out the total power draw should be 10 amps but that will be total in dash draw so you will have to match that to stop the leds blowing up due to high voltage and high amp's.

HOpe my rough example kind of helps

ps board at work so thats the reason being the diagrams

both are ideas of wiring the new leds

digram.bmp

digram2.bmp

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

cookie: From what I can see, I just need to play with or replace one of the two to get the other half of the panel going.

Sumo: yep! I took pics when I was doing it... will attach thanks!

Pic 1: The AC unit in an R33. the recycled air and demister have their own individual green bulb/LED for the little rectangle which lights up green when pressed.

Pic 2: The rear of the unit. There is one bulb here, and one on the other side. There is a groove on the rear of the bulb which accommodates a flat-head screwdriver just nicely. Unscrew, flip unit, and out it comes. Check your contacts and bend the metal of the bulb out a bit if it looks like it has "unsprung" itself over time. This has fixed one of the two for me purely by accident.

Pic 3: The bulb and rubber cap. If that doesn't insulate heat, I don't know what does! The buttons are not super-bright to begin with... I may try peeling the rubber off the working one to see how bright it will go. Sure it'll be white instead of a light blue, but who cares? I can see my buttons! ($10 if you find a 4-leaf clover)

post-3573-1128559068.jpg

post-3573-1128559112.jpg

post-3573-1128559225.jpg

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Well stuff *me*! =-o

The globes DO come out eh? Shouldn't be too hard to source the right replacement globes for the holders then!

If I find the time, i'll pull them out this week and also let you know how it goes, Steve.

SLY33 Mentor

SLY33

Posted
Posted (edited)

I had to change mine a few years ago. Back then I bought them from either Jaycar or Dick Smiths. They are called 'grain of wheat bulbs'. Silly name, but thats what they're called. Cost me a few dollars each.

Edited by SLY33
N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

Yesterday i tried to follow the instructions to do the swap from the silvia link - only had time to put two lights in - and they turned out way to dark, i will try again with some different bits and let you know how it goes

gt-t_r34 Mentor

gt-t_r34

Posted
Posted
Yesterday i tried to follow the instructions to do the swap from the silvia link - only had time to put two lights in - and they turned out way to dark, i will try again with some different bits and let you know how it goes

what mcd leds did you use the 1000 ones maybe a higher rating im getting my leds tomorow n1

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

yeah i bought 1000mcd leds - well a mate of mine did for me - he's a Qantas technician and loves fiddling with that stuff.

He suggested changing the resistors first then if that doesnt work to go for the 3000mcd ones cause i dont want them to be to be too bright as im driving at night and he thinks 3000mcd leds will blend in with my stereo headunit - theres better things to look at, like the boost gauge (and the road from time to time :P )

I should have a result by Friday for everyone on this topic

midnight Experienced

midnight

Posted
Posted
Yesterday i tried to follow the instructions to do the swap from the silvia link - only had time to put two lights in - and they turned out way to dark, i will try again with some different bits and let you know how it goes

hey, im 3am on ns.com and I wrote that article :(

when I wrote it I just bought the cheapest LEDs I could find, hence not the brightest ones. but its all down to personal prefrence, I think that if its too bright it may be a distraction.

anyways glad to see my article is getting around. :(

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

Hey - good article - with the polarity it was different on my R32 (which i was sort of expecting) (some are left facing and others right facing)

Id recommend 1000mcd bulbs aswel, any brighter and like you said, it can be distracting. Plus - how often do you fiddle with the ac? personally i just set it and leave it so i find it irritating being in your face all the time, the stereo does a good job of that anyway!!!

Again - good article dude!! - ill post night shot pics asap

Mick Mentor

Mick

Posted
Posted

there a standard dick smith job replacement, blue leds look good on the recycle and demist buttons cos ive done that already, but dont use leds for the main lighting, it wont light up properly because blue leds have a very narrow lighting angle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...