Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am look at buying a stagea and want to ask a few questions.

What model do i need to get a manual??

How much would a 260RS cost or would it be cheaper to put a RB26 in later??

Can the 2.5 be modified with a RB30 bottom end??

Can they be changed to RWD like the r32 GTR??

Any help would be great.

Thanks

Rob

Edited by WHITER33GTS-T
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87778-looking-to-buy-a-stagea/
Share on other sites

Hey Rob,

Manual, you would need either a series 2 NEO Manual

or

a 260rs

In regards to the RB26 Conversion, I would be inclined to say that its cheaper to buy and convert. But still I'm not too sure. Better to talk to Stagzilla on that one... :)

RWD. Now as far as I know you can but cant. So basically, you can convert it to RWD with the attesa controller, but you cannot get it fully RWD. Thats all I know on that one... B)

I hope that helped a bit.

Cheers,

Chris :D

I used J Spec, very helpful and great service. Have a chat to Ben Lippa :D

www.j-spec.com.au

[email protected] (Email)

Front end conversion, I have been quoted (By garage-13) $5750 for the front end kit + $1500 for the install <_< I think you could get it cheaper....just have to shop round.

I'm planning on getting the 260rs bodykit when I get some more money. B)

Cheers,

Chris

Edited by Stagea RS-Four
Thanks Chris,

Also is it very expensive to do a R34 conversion front end?

I am after something a bit different as i am in Tassie and there are R33's every where.

You won't need an R34 front end to be different, Stagea's are rare as hens teeth as they go. Find a nice one, put some nice wheels and a bodykit on it and you'll be set

260rs is cheaper, though the km's are probably gonna be around 100 000km (even if dash says 40 000km or some rubbish) and the rb26's r prone to cracking piston ring lands and blowing excess oil out past the rings, so make sure its genuine low km's.

i would have gone 260rs but i already had the rb26 engine and i thought it would be cheaper (and easy :D )

good luck

Brad

hey i just warn u the stagea is a heavy sucker :D

weighed mine with no driver and half tank of fuel and sub box and 2 amps in it, and it got 1800kg exactly.

even with 350rwhp it was abit of a slug off the line, the rb25 auto on the other hand was a beast to launch off lights fast :) just lacked up top, and the 26's top end makes up for it, and the manual goodness :D

rb30 bottom end is possible, need a sump adaptor because the rb30 block doesnt have the 4wd bolt pattern.

the stock axles on the diff r tiny and so are the uni joints so 3L torque would munch them in no time, my 26 snapped one clean in half just coming onto boost while rolling along in 1st gear.

the stageas can be put in 2wd, plenty of different methods, remove front tailshaft or undo the line off the rear of gearbox and screw it into a spare actuator (same as thing thats on rear of gearbox) to stop it pressing the clutch packs together :)

hope it helps

Brad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...