Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok,

I am sick of how dim my bloody dash is!!

There are two things that i will try now. I removed the dash and found that the globes on the back of the dash are Toshiba globes. There are several different types of globes too

14V1.4W (most)

14V2W (~few)

14V3WL (~couple)

dash9ch.jpg

The red ones are the ones that do the light of the dash (the others all do independent things like seperate lights etc) So i would want to replace the 3W globes

I am tossing up the possibility of finding brighter globes or LED's to fit the required holes. More information on the globes here, they are the T-2 WEDGE BASE LAMPS style.

http://www.htl.co.jp/pro/kogata/et65.html

It seems I should get those gas filled ones as they have a higher brightness then the regular ones, or just get the non long life ones (clearly they would be on the most, so they choose the long life globes). Anyone know of any brighter globes, or should i just shoot off to my local jaycar?

Now, for complaince the guys had to make the dash have a dimmer switch. All they did was cut the power wire and then put in a POT. I am thinking that this could have increased the resistance, even when the pot is on maximum, meaning even the brightest setting on the pot is below what it came like factory. Anyone think this could be right? I am going to try and cut the POT out and just connect the two wires and see if this makes a difference, but this does go against the australian complaince rules..... hmmm

Anyway, just as a side note, i also found that i had an exhaust tempterure light hole (between park brake and little engine light)...but i had no globe in there (?)

Edited by AlexCim
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88147-the-brightness-of-the-dash/
Share on other sites

Ok,

I am sick of how dim my bloody dash is!!

There are two things that i will try now. I removed the dash and found that the globes on the back of the dash are Toshiba globes. There are several different types of globes too

14V1.4W (most)

14V2WL (~few)

14V3W (~couple)

dash9ch.jpg

I am tossing up the possibility of finding brighter globes or LED's to fit the required holes. More information on the globes here, they are the T-2 WEDGE BASE LAMPS style.

http://www.htl.co.jp/pro/kogata/et65.html

Anyone know of any brighter globes, or should i just shoot off to my local jaycar?

Now, for complaince the guys had to make the dash have a dimmer switch. All they did was cut the power wire and then put in a POT. I am thinking that this could have increased the resistance, even when the pot is on maximum, meaning even the brightest setting on the pot is below what it came like factory. Anyone think this could be right? I am going to try and cut the POT out and just connect the two wires and see if this makes a difference, but this does go against the australian complaince rules..... hmmm

Anyway, just as a side note, i also found that i had an exhaust tempterure light hole (between park brake and little engine light)...but i had no globe in there (?)

if its got a factory cat on it will have the exhuast temp sensor probe in there, but if it aint the stock one it will set off the light without a sensor on so the previous owner removed the globe instead, it if its stock zorst it prolly means it was an aftermarket one maybe

dunno bout dash lights, mine aint got no dimmer and it got complied :(

the annoying thing is that my aftermarket cat that i have bought has a exhaust temp sensor hole in it, had to block it up with a bolt.

I think ill get an exhaust temperature gauge aftermarket and just put it in there, but would love to just connect the factory stuff back up... I havnt seen any wires under there though?

Right now, i am most inclined to just remove the POT all together. Brad, does your dash appear dim at all? Or would you say its on par with commo's etc etc

the annoying thing is that my aftermarket cat that i have bought has a exhaust temp sensor hole in it, had to block it up with a bolt.

I think ill get an exhaust temperature gauge aftermarket and just put it in there, but would love to just connect the factory stuff back up... I havnt seen any wires under there though?

Right now, i am most inclined to just remove the POT all together. Brad, does your dash appear dim at all? Or would you say its on par with commo's etc etc

hey alex, im not sure to be honest with only doing about 500km in it since ive owned it :D and mostly day driving, but i do think they where pretty dull compared to my vs commodore, and as i said i aint got any dimmer at all i dont think :)

also the wire that does to the cat convertor is located under the passenger seat and comes through the floor with like metal braided line to the plug.

i ripped mine out and i think to stop light coming on u gotta put power to it or something, its been awhile ;)

i spend about 99.9% of the time changing things and 0.1% drivin it :)

Edited by StageZilla
Ok,

Now, for complaince the guys had to make the dash have a dimmer switch. All they did was cut the power wire and then put in a POT. I am thinking that this could have increased the resistance, even when the pot is on maximum, meaning even the brightest setting on the pot is below what it came like factory. Anyone think this could be right? I am going to try and cut the POT out and just connect the two wires and see if this makes a difference, but this does go against the australian complaince rules.....

The POT will have zero resistance at one end, so wouldn't be diming it at all.. So I don't think chopping it out will gain you anything.

Ian

the annoying thing is that my aftermarket cat that i have bought has a exhaust temp sensor hole in it, had to block it up with a bolt.

I think ill get an exhaust temperature gauge aftermarket and just put it in there, but would love to just connect the factory stuff back up... I havnt seen any wires under there though?

Right now, i am most inclined to just remove the POT all together. Brad, does your dash appear dim at all? Or would you say its on par with commo's etc etc

My Stagea doesn't have a dash dimmer that I can find, where is yours located?

After a year and 30,000k's I don't find the dash lights too dimm at all. I only notice it when I get out of cars that have too bright dash lights that I have to turn down.

I wouldn't run an exhaust temperature gauge in the cat, it is too far from the engine to tell you anything. Plus the cat itself, by its catalyser activities, increases the heat to burn off the contaminents. So you will get a false reading anyway.

Australia has no requirement (via ADR's) for cat overheat sensors. Most cars with cat over heat sensors have them pulled up and wound (stuffed) under the passengers seat. I would check there, you may find that the compliance shop did that and then replaced the rubber floor bung with one with no hole. Pull the globe is a "standard" trick to stop it ever coming on.

;) cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

My dash dimmer is located right next to the streering column between the climate control sucker thing and the column.

my car was complied at NIZMO pty ltd, maybe different complaince places do it differently, however, i dont see how that works.

I am going to remove my dimmer switch anyway, ATM, im trying to find replacement LED's with a wideangle, but the T2 std is very rarely used (go figure with a stagea)

My dash dimmer is located right next to the streering column between the climate control sucker thing and the column.

my car was complied at NIZMO pty ltd, maybe different complaince places do it differently, however, i dont see how that works.

I am going to remove my dimmer switch anyway, ATM, im trying to find replacement LED's with a wideangle, but the T2 std is very rarely used (go figure with a stagea)

Same compliance shop, no dash dimmer on mine. Maybe they forgot.

;) cheers :)

I went through MJR in QLD and I actually asked them about the dimmer when I got the car and they said it wasn't a mandatory ADR for compliance ?? Either that, or they forgot too and were just BSing

I actually find my dash too bright at night, I actually prefer a dark dash, to help my night vision.

Ill try and take a photo when i have some spare time.

My dash (white lights) are not as brigh as say the park brake light, or the other lights on the dash.

Would be as there are four lights for the whole dash, and independent lights for each of those... iono...

Ill get a photo

Damn...

Plan B then, brighter globes...

Cant hurt to cut it out of the act anyway...why the HELL would i want it dimmer then std anyway...stupid law!

It won't make any difference whether you cut it out or not, and you'll probably need a dimmer once you've got the brighter globes...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...