Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • GTS-t VSPEC

    20904

  • Nizmo

    13582

  • SHUTO-BOY

    6636

  • skyzerr33

    5353

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Ken,

We shouldn't be so mean, but I do think Joe should proof read some of his posts, they make no sense.

See'ya:burnout:

I think he is a bit like me. Watch's the keyboard as he types.

Difference is , I actually go back and edit what I post if it's wrong.

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Ken,

We shouldn't be so mean, but I do think Joe should proof read some of his posts, they make no sense.

See'ya:burnout:

hahah nah I dotn mind... I know I should check.. I do some times but some times I cant be bothered to do so...:)

arrhhh well I am not hoping to be a english teacher anyway so you all can suck my balls :D

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Ken,

I had the negative camber dialled out for the drags, should I put it back on for the track?

See'ya:burnout:

Absolutely.

The dedicated Solo 1 cars ( which is the enlargened American version of what MC is ) run a reasonable bit on the front to aid on turn in. Can be VERY dodgy at high speed cos it wants to tramline.

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by Pva_Glue

hahah nah I dotn mind... I know I should check.. I do some times but some times I cant be bothered to do so...:)

arrhhh well I am not hoping to be a english teacher anyway so you all can suck my balls :D

:shake: my ass

Cheers

Ken:D

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Tempting offer Joe, but you balls might get stuck between my teeth:p

The storm is getting better:D

See'ya:burnout:

Not to mention you might mistake the snag for a weiner or c o c k tail frank. Hehehe

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Ken,

Most of the negative camber was on the rear, it handled corners much better than it does now. Only problem was the tyre wear.

See'ya:burnout:

Yep , ya can't have one without losing the other.

Not many set up track style cars I know worry about the tyre wear.

They are only interested in Lateral G's ( ie grip )

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Joe,

If I could suck my own then why would I bother leaving home?:D

See'ya:burnout:

I agree , you could make your weird movies in the comfort of your own bedroom.:)

Cheers

Ken

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...