Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • GTS-t VSPEC

    20904

  • Nizmo

    13582

  • SHUTO-BOY

    6636

  • skyzerr33

    5353

Originally posted by macka

ok with 5 secs looking at that dont buy resistive plugs

If you have a problem u can rectify it later as long as you find  A good Electronic Teck :P

Resistive plugs may cause u to have poor ignition bud  fact

Must be why Steve said not to go for them.

having said that, it seems to be against the norm but I trust his experience.

Plus for the $17.50 they cost, who cares if I need to change them for the others.

BTW - he put me onto 6's, not 7's as most other people use...

Originally posted by Micko

Must be why Steve said not to go for them.

having said that, it seems to be against the norm but I trust his experience.

Plus for the $17.50 they cost, who cares if I need to change them for the others.

BTW - he put me onto 6's, not 7's as most other people use...

But you need resistance plugs if the car is electronic computer managed according to the tech article.

Or have I missed something ?

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by macka

Yeah go the colder plugs

Not so easy to start in the cold just pretend ur startin a carbed XD

hehe

But it helps stop pinging :P

errr 6 is hotter than 7 . NGK goes the other way to most heat range spark plugs.

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by gtrken

But you need resistance plugs if the car is electronic computer managed according to the tech article.

Or have I missed something ?

Cheers

Ken

You're right ken - i might go get a set of resistor ones before i put the car back on the dyno - then i can compare them to see if there is a difference whilst the car is on the rollers:uh-huh:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • That is a lovely Volvo, just saying. Yes I should have got an 260RS when they were cheap. I do regret now.
    • ^ lots of good points made above. The thing is, "aggressive" or "flush" fitment is relative depending on how much you have been influenced by social media. My starting point is always "look at the Nismo RWD specs". That is where you should start, then start measuring as GTSBoy as sort of mentioned, because every car will be slightly different. My 8.5"+35/9.5+38 will not be "flush" enough for you because you want more "pumped" look, which is why you measure. Tyre sizes and brand/models also make a difference. Some tyres are more chunky/square, some are more rounded. That means you could get away with more aggressive offsets without rubbing. But then it also depends on your ride height. Also depends on how much your car copped damage before being shipped from Japan. So it goes back to measuring your car yourself and determining what can work. Those Nismo specs are used bacause it's a safe spec for standard car (suspension. body) with chunky tyres. But then I put 265/35 wide tyres on R34 GT-R wheels, and currently run 285/30 tyres on 18x10 wheels.
    • Sounds pretty awesome. I recommend creating a new build thread and posting all your goodness in there.
    • +1 for Jesse Streeter. Over the years I have got a bunch of stuff from him (usually wheels, but other parts like aftermarket braces and coolers). He was very good with shipping things to Australia. He may be able to send to other countries.
×
×
  • Create New...