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I have got the PFC boost controller kit ready to install.

Would there be any benefit to fitting a HKS wastgate actuator as well?

I will be looking at setting the boost level at about 0.8 bar (12 PSI) which is within the recommended range of 0.8 - 0.9 for the HKS actuator.

Will it make the boost more stable? Make it easier for the solenoid to do its job?

Enable boost to spool up quicker?

Or will the boost controller do just as good a job with the standard acuator.

This is for a R33 25t series II

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88571-hks-wastgate-actuator-any-use/
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sorry to hijack... but where'd u find one and how much?

The actuator? Nengun sell them for about $170 Aus but I can get one from a guy over here in NZ for $150NZ (he wants to get rid of it because he doesn't need it)

The actuator sets the minimum boost pressure so it needs to be rated at whatever minimum you need . Electronic control is good for solving boost creep problems but cannot regulate at less than the spring pressure in the actuator can , only more . I would use the electronic control before the higher rate actuator .

Cheers A .

The actuator sets the minimum boost pressure so it needs to be rated at whatever minimum you need . Electronic control is good for solving boost creep problems but cannot regulate at less than the spring pressure in the actuator can , only more . I would use the electronic control before the higher rate actuator .

Cheers  A .

Thanks Disco, so no point in both (I already have the boost controller)

Didn't Sydneykid write something about how to use an adj actuator and ebc together properly?

Found it:

A boost controller solenoid works by opening (bypassing) and closing rapidly to limit the boost the wategate actuator sees. So you can have say 15 psi but the wastegate actuator only gets say 10 psi.

The boost controller also works when you are trying to steepen up the boost curve by keeping the wastegate shut longer. Some are rated at 10 psi but start opening at 5 psi, some people call this \"boost creep\" which is not strictly technically correct.

The problem with all boost controllers happens when you have a big difference between the initial opening psi of the wastegate actuator (say 5 psi) and the boost controller (say 15 psi). The solenoid has to work very hard to bypass this much pressure.

What we have found works well is to increase the pressure of the wastegate actuator. A stronger spring, lengthening the actuator rod, spacing the actuator away from the turbo body or using a higher psi wastegate actuator (eg; a RB20DET actuator on an RB25DET) all achieve this.

If the wastegtate actuator is now say 10 psi, this means the solenoid (still 15 psi) only has to bypass half as much. This results in much better accuracy of boost control.

Edited by Scooby

Not wanting to hi-jack, but since we're on the topic of wastegate actuators, can someone tell me which HKS wastegate actuator (ie. 80mm or 100mm) is more suitable for use on a HKS2835 ProS on an RB25det? Looking to get around 275rwkw with supporting mods (incl EBC)

I wouldn't have a clue which one is more suitable...

Thanks guys :blink:

Thanks Scooby, SK's on the money as usual

Still not 100% sure whether actuator will be much use to me.

If standard actuator is 7psi and I want to run 12psi

(HKS actuator is 12 - 13psi)

is that a big enough difference to reduce the accuracy of the boost via the EBC?

Edited by SAMFISHER

Mate that's a good question, presumably if you set the ebc at 12 psi and the wg at 11psi you'd have an ideal arrangement but I see your point re how much difference is ok to run with - why mess with another peice of adj kit if you don't have to. Hopefully the learned one (TLO) will surface soon...

Cheers

My 2530 arrived this morning and the HKS actuator that came with it has a softer spring than my old rb20 actuator.

How do you set the actuator rod preload?

My rb20 actuator rod had about 3mm ie the rod was 3mm shorter than the distance from the diaphram at rest and the pin on the closed wastegate arm but my 2530 came set up with about 6mm of preload.

Is there a proper method of setting this up?

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