Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Intercooler sizes increase from R32 -> R33 / Stagea -> R34 GTT

(I think the Stag one is approx same size as the R33).

R32 has slightly different piping so it's not a bolt in job like the other models. But the GTT intercooler is a cheap upgrade, especially if you're not chasing huge HP (it will handle ~200kw easily).

You can also get aftermarket side mounts: Trust / GReddy and ARC are two of the more common ones.

Take a look for some of Wolverine's posts. He recommends that you mesh the LHS front wheel guard to promote greater air flow through the intercooler too.

I used an R34GGT intercooler on the Stagea as an upgrade (refer Stagea Section). Cost less than $150 and took about half an hour to fit the intercooler and about another half an hour to make a bigger (alloy) duct. No extra pipework, no extra clamps, no silicone joiners, no cutting bumper bar or supports, no moving horns, power steering or transmission coolers etc etc. For my power target of 200 4wkw, it should do the job just fine.

:D cheers :D

Yeah same GTT cooler as well.

People mention how cheap front mounts are, which is true, but noone mentions the stuff SydneyKid mentions though. A few guys recently posted of there woes fitting them..... and frankly i HATE cutting up my car, especially when the sidemount does the job adequately.

Gary

Sounds good, not a bad way to go.

Are they much larger than standard.

I'm looking at putting it onto an R32, much modifing needed?

Read the stagea section, and you should come up with some info. I believe (from SK's threads) that the R34 GT-t intercooler is roughly 23% larger than the R33 'cooler.

I put a R34 'cooler on my Stagea, and it was around 3-4 rows higher, and considerably thicker. Should work all ok for my power output (want under 200kw4w).

Mine cost $200 + a $20 tip and postage from a fellow forum member. Do a flush and it'll be as good as new!

Brendan

Edited by bwilkeson
You'll need minor adjustments on a 32 and it will be ALOT larger than the stock 32 unit.

Straight drop in for 33/stagea owners and a bit bigger.

Good bang for buck IMO, esp since there's no f*&king around.

Try and find one with the plastic ducting for it.

Yup, ED kindly sold me his 'cooler (thank you sir) with the plastic shroud around it... so I didnt have to fabricate something like SK did.

Brendan

End of the day, it depends on how much power you are chasing.

Decide on a power figure and pick your cooler.

Rules vary state to state. Best to post that Q in the state sections :(

Brendan, how much power you pushing now?

Edited by ed

i recently fitted a r34gtt sidemount to my 32gtst,i got the idea from sydneykid,cheers!

i havent bothered putting the black plastic thing on the front(does it make that much difference?) though the plastic gaurd in my wheels arch is removed. all up $150.

End of the day, it depends on how much power you are chasing.

Decide on a power figure and pick your cooler.

Rules vary state to state. Best to post that Q in the state sections :D

Brendan, how much power you pushing now?

Hi ED, how are you mate?

Thanks to the R34 GTT intercooler (once flushed) helped the Stagea to develop 141.3kw at the 4wheels. Thats with the list of goodies on my 'signature' below.

Got to install an Apexi SITC, Nismo fuel regulator, Z32 AFM, and upgrade the fuel lines and fuel pump, and Id like to see around 150 at the 4wheels with a retune of the Apexi SAFC.

Once I hiflow the turbo the car should have a lazy 180kw+ at the 4wheels, enought for a family wagon.

Brendan

i recently fitted a r34gtt sidemount to my 32gtst,i got the idea from sydneykid,cheers!

i havent bothered putting the black plastic thing on the front(does it make that much difference?)  though the plastic gaurd in my wheels arch is removed. all up $150.

So how does it go? Can you notice a difference? Was it difficult to fit? I'd be interested in taking this part with my r32, until i can afford to go fmic with front bar etc.

The car runs very smoothly, got a nice AFR set to 12:1 via the SAFC, as in SK's threads (stagea section) the R34 GTT intercooler is roughly a 23% increase in size / therefore flow etc, and my car has been upgraded power wise by pretty much this figure.

If SK reckons its good for ~200kw@4w then youve got to take that with a fair consideration.

Fitment: straight bolt on job, easy stuff (mind you my workshop did it for me; I had a heap of gear installed at the same time.)

I might have sourced a decent brand name 'C-bend' style smallish front mount intercooler at a good price, so the R34 GTT intercooler might be taken off (in 4-6 weeks time?) and sold..... although Im sure this cooler would have been perfect for my wanted power output.

Plus Ive sourced an R34 GTT Neo turbo, so thats another reason Im seriously considering this brand-name 'cooler Ive sourced.....

On a R33 manual Ive read they are good for up to ~250rwkw... but that'd be max.

Brendan

Edited by bwilkeson

i think/hope it gave me a little more uptop as it allows air to flow much better then the 32smic, i've given it a bootfull plenty of times and the outlet side of the cooler is always cool.

it collects air flowing through the front bar much easier as its alot bigger and hangs lower,i payed $50 for the modifications(changing direction of outlet pipe on the end tank). Cast ally is a bitch to weld.

so $150 all up:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...