Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

kero, a rag, an old credit card, and patience. soak the sticky stuff well with your solvent, then use the credit card to carefully scrape it off. dont go too hard or you'll end up with scratches.

Edited by jezzerrr

Yeah thats the best way. I used a bit of turps on a rag and carefully just let it soak in and it sorta turns it to jelly which is easy scratched off by finger and then just rubbed like hell to get the rest off.

Its a very slow process though.

Im still trying to get all off!

HAH finally!! Was thinking of asking this problem myself!!

Its a right bastard to get off eh?!?! It pisses me off as I lean on the car and it trys to rip the bloody hairs off my arms!!

I will get around to doing it this weekend

Cheers guys!!

The best product to use is probably "SHELLITE", should be able to find it in most supermarkets near the metho. Metho has a brown label, Shellite has the blue label.

I use it at work to remove sticky labels, off the label printers. Doesn't react with the plastic, etc.

  • 2 weeks later...

using kero worked the best for me, i pulled off what i could by hand, then used a cloth to rub the kero on, then it was a matter of scratching the rest off with a credit card.

Only problem is there is a bit of a gap between the rubber and the door frame were the rain guard sat :S

  • 2 weeks later...

lolz...

For the last 20yrs i've always driven with the windows down, even in winter I have to have it cracked atleast 2"...I was actually thinking of getting one of these for my 33 after finding out how much water flows in with the windows even slighty cracked in a light shower..especially when you pull up (bath anyone?)

Anyway to the point, before you guys removed your's did you notice if they actually work at all? being so small I wasnt sure if they'd have any effect.

Cheers Bung.

cheers...appreciated

Ok here it go's. They actually do work pretty well. What it mainly stops is the water that is on the roof filtering down into the car. Without them all the water gathers in the sill and streams into the cabin through the window. I guess if you ever take them off don't wind ur window down for about 2 mins after you take off. Then you'll be sweet

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...