Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I decided to buy this model, Legalis R because its soo quite...

So i hoped!!....AND IT IS!! Its like, driving a std car with a little tiny tiny burble!! Infact, often engine/road noise out does the exhaust.

I cant feel much of a difference, thats probably coz i havnt installed the cat just yet, but mmm so happy

Link to Fuji website about my exhaust... http://translate.google.com/translate?u=ht...Flanguage_tools

ex17cs.jpg

ex27le.jpg

ex35zf.jpg

ex45qj.jpg

ex57jg.jpg

Cant wait to put the cat and split dump in, will be fun :P

BTW, anyone wondering, i got it for 1100 airmail deliverd...

Edited by AlexCim
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90146-got-my-new-fujitsubo-exhaust/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

NOOO should have got the power getter so i could see some pics installed.. damm u.. ahhaahh..

So you cant even hear the exhaust at all?? not even a tiny bit??

Is that the way you always wanted??

Edited by siddr20

Written at the bottom, 1100 air mail

I couldnt get the power getter for E-WGNC34, only this or the regaris. I didnt want the regaris as it was 94dB at 4800, this is 84dB

(to me, that is crazy low)

Plus, i am trying to keep the sleeper look/feel about the car, so this suits me perfect :P

Previous to this, i had a custom made catback with xforce muffler. For me(quite lover) it was quite loud, and the single cabin doesnt help when it comes to cruising at 2,000 at 80 for several KM's so yeh, quite is what i wanted.

Anyone that wants a cheap catback for a Stag, i want to sell this one

It cost me 590 to make, so make me an offer for it..

catback14ua.jpg

Edited by AlexCim

Wow, that exhaust looks almost identical to my one, but mine isn't as shiny anymore. maybe i've got one of those too. i can't hear the exhaust at all really unless i'm behind the car loading the boot.

looks really good though, congrats

Wow, that exhaust looks almost identical to my one, but mine isn't as shiny anymore. maybe i've got one of those too. i can't hear the exhaust at all really unless i'm behind the car loading the boot.

looks really good though, congrats

Have a look under your muffler and see if it says FGK, if so, chances are you have the same exhaust

When i said i cant really hear it at all, i am not just trying about idle, i am talking about the whole rev range. At ~2000 you can hear a tiny tiny rumble, i think thats where it resonates most... apart from that, engine/road noise is the go with loudness

Cat goes in today! Ill post photos when im done

And here is the cat!

its a BOS importing stainless steel inside cat

The power difference for this exhaust over standard isnt HUGE, but its noticable. Its because i chose quite over powerful...

The boost is much stronger now, so is induction noise and also its spools really hard during hard gear changes. Power is a lot smoother too

Cant wait for the PFC and turbo upgrade... oh and the manual conversion :)

cat18ab.jpg

cat27hx.jpg

Oh, and to anyone wondering, the car sits 12cm off the ground at the lowest point, this is the bit just under the rear sway bar.

My car also sits at 405mm and 380mm F/R centre wheel to gaurd... soo i wont lower it much because then ill be illegal, so drop it only another ... 1.6cm (0.8cm adjustments when i get the shocks)

Yep

When i met up with Burns and he was complaining about the car being too low and hitting things, i thought, how could that be because the car looked PERFECT at the height it sits

What getting this aftermarket exhaust as taught me is that no one that will get a aftermarket exhaust can expect to sit too high off the ground. I wanted to drop the car to about 350-360mm, but now, i wont take it below ~370 because otherwise it will be

a) illegal

B) impractical (i still carry heaps of stuff too)

But still, i just the height of 370. Ill just fill it with some GTR wheels when i get around to it and it will be all sweet. I think PranK has std suspension and his GTR rims fill the gaurds perfectly.

On the Fuji website, it says that the exhaust causes the std car to drop to 13cm off the ground. Given sag/age, i think 12cm sounds about right

I know this is an exhaust thread, but ground clearance and ride height are important considerations when choosing an exhaust. So there is a mixture of exhaust and ride height dimensions that might come in handy following.

Before we get into it I should mention that I have raised mine 8mm (using the next up circlip groove) since the pictures where taken. It now sits at 345 mm centre of wheel to guard at the rear (350 mm at the front) and at that height the STANDARD exhaust is exactly 100 mm from the ground. That's measured under the rear stabiliser bar same as Alex's. At that height it just clears the local speed bumps that I usually use to check clearances.

Note that the front 350 mm and rear 345 mm gives a 10 mm rake (nose down) when measured at the sills. At 405/380 Alex's is sitting around 10 mm nose up, which is what mine was like when I got it. The 10 mm nose down makes a big difference to how it looks, much more agressive stance, so to speak. For the guys getting the Whiteline/Bilstein Group Buy kit that is 1 circlip groove up from standard, both front and rear.

The standard exhaust is ~2.5" (62 mm) OD, so a 3.25" (83 mm OD) exhaust is going to be 20 m closer to the ground. Even a 3" (75mm) exhaust is going to be 13 mm lower. I can't raise the exhaust up any higher than standard because it will hit the stabiliser bar. So I might have to go up another 8 mm in the spring height to give similar ground clearance to what I have now.

That will leave the front at 358 mm and rear at 353 mm (still with a 10 mm rake, nose down) which is 47/27 lower than where Alex's is at the moment.

:D Cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

Ill keep this thread updated when its my time to buy the suspension package too, my goal is to keep it perfectly legal...

Ill also update when i install the split dump/front in one, but i doubt that will sit any lower really..

Edited by AlexCim
Have a look under your muffler and see if it says FGK, if so, chances are you have the same exhaust

When i said i cant really hear it at all, i am not just trying about idle, i am talking about the whole rev range. At ~2000 you can hear a tiny tiny rumble, i think thats where it resonates most... apart from that, engine/road noise is the go with loudness

Cat goes in today! Ill post photos when im done

Turns out i do have the same exhaust as you, but only form Cat back. i'll have to get the autosol onto it to get it looking like yours though, mine has been on there at least 2 years

I was the original stagea trialer for the SS split dump/front pipe

There was some problems with the angles of the pipe which are getting sorted now. Also, the o2 hit the exhaust manifold

I am just waiting on my revised pipe to arrive and then ill give it a go installing it again (was a bitch of a job the first time around .. but now i know what to do/how)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...