Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 1993 Mspec Damaged (syd)

r32_93
 Share

Recommended Posts

r32_93 Enthusiast

r32_93

Posted
Posted (edited)

car starts and drives ok just front engine damage fmic is ok mainly front body work

Bumper is still ok

specs

92 mspec

rb20det

blitz sus pod

blitz bov

heavy duty clutch

3 inch kamikoto exhaust system

lowered ,sunroof ,

fmic

dna boost controller

regular servicing jvc deck speakers interiotr is emaculate

however car front will need repairing

will throw in a free vertex front bar waiting to be painted

$5500 neg

this is complete car just front end damage

contact me on 0401 801 565

pics below

casio_fotoz_040.jpg

casio_fotoz_041.jpg

casio_fotoz_043.jpg

casio_fotoz_042.jpg

casio_fotoz_044.jpg

Edited by r32_93
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90321-r32-1993-mspec-damaged-syd/
Share on other sites
Jago Mentor

Jago

Posted
Posted

do you have a list of what exactly is damaged?

are the radiator supports bent? radiator damage? engine damage? anything at all?

Sofar im just seeing bonnet, lights, front bar?, rear quater panel, and maybe radiator and support mountings(looks like a big maybe, as in don't look damaged, then again i can't see clearly), FMIC don't look that knocked up, but that's a maybe.

would you be able to provide a detailed list?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • feartherb26
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By feartherb26 · Posted

      If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • Kinkstaah
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...