Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all I have absolutley no idea what I'll get for my sound system...

ok My front speakers are almost on the way to dying..etc.

I am thinking 6&1/2" Splits at the front and 6X9 at the back shelf.

I really dotn want subbies...and $$$ that I dotn have much.

so I hear MB quartz are quite good!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MB Quart's are one of the best quality speakers on the market in my opinion (and a lot of other people's too). They start to get very expensive compared to other brands, but it's worth the cost for clarity.

go here: http://www.mbquart.com/

cheers

Brett

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I should've looked at your car more closely next time I see you brett

so 6x9 fits at teh back? and two way or 3 way? which one gives you more bass support, because I hear if you have 3 way at the back and front then it will interfere with front splits ion close cabin like R33. do I still need a amp?

Cheers

Joe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/904-3-way-or-2-way-6x9-does-it-fit-on-r33/
Share on other sites

Hey Joe,

Next time we go on a cruise I'll give you a look at my quarts. You should be able to fit 6x9's in the rear shelf, and there shouldn't be any problems with interference. Personally I'd go with 2 way 6x9's so that the top end sounds like it is coming from the front of the car instead of behind you.

Brett

  • 4 weeks later...

I reccomend DLS 6x9's/7x10's also if you don't want subs. I don't reccomend the mainstream brands - Kenwood, Sony, Pioneer (but they are OK -- Loud, but dont sound too good.) Make a custom parcel shelf out of MDF, with built in pods for the 6x9's or 7x10's and get it vaccuum vinyl covered or similar, or carpeted, whichever you like. If you don't want subs, but want bass, i suggest DLS 7x10's. They sound good, are loud, and not TOO expensive either.

Guest Diabolik1

Thanx for that Ryan,

I was after 7x10's originally because youre exactly right, i dont want subs etc, but want a bit of bass..!

I was under the impression that the only 7x10's were the Kenwood HQ's...so i didnt even know about any other ones.

ill look into it...thanx.

PS. where do u usually get the DLS 7x10's from? any online stores?

Thanx

dls_1070.jpg

DLS 7x10 2-way Speakers. 1 Swivel Silk Dome Tweeter + grilles & Crossovers 100 WRMS

Price: $499.00

DLS 7x10 2-way 1 Swivel Silk Dome Tweeter + grilles & Crossovers 100 WRMS. These speakers will thoroughly impress with both solid bass and good sound quality. Take one look at these, and few would argue that they are not the ultimate oval speakers ever made! From the classy, chromed baskets to the huge subwoofer-sized magnets, they look more like subs than speakers. The 2 voice coils are also larger than in some 12 subs! Quality swivel mount silk tweeters and separate passive crossovers ensure the usual tight, clear and natural sound quality characteristic of DLS speakers. You also get really loud bass! The DLS 7x10s fit into 6x9 speaker holes.

There you go

They're definately worth the extra ~$200 over Pioneer etc ones..

I also suggest you get an amp to run them, and your front speakers. A couple of good budget amps are the Jaycar 4x100 and the Clarion VNET4100, but i reccomend you save more and get a better quality amp it will be worth it in the long run. You will still have a decent stereo system without subwoofers.

Remember, the deck says "4x50w" or whatever, but thats PMPO, which works out to be like 4-5w RMS. Not very much power at all.

Here is the details of the Australian distributor, look on their website or give them a ring.

Australia:

Eurotech

285-289 Port Road

Hindmarsh

South Australia 5007

Phone: (08) 8346 2555

Fax: (08) 8346 2888

E-mail: [email protected]

Homepage: www.eurotech.com.au

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
×
×
  • Create New...