Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive just bought a Field Torque Split Controller for my R32 GTR, but the instructions i recieved for installing it is entirely in Japanese!!!

Does anyone know of a set of English instructions for this item, or has anyone fitted one of these to thier R32 GTR?

I know its a long shot, but i thought id try.

Next step is to hang out at my local Sumo Wrestleing club and try and befriend someone Japanese to translate!! lol!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90671-field-torque-split-controller/
Share on other sites

I ordered mine from http://www.greenline.jp/

I think the Australian agent is Jason, fairly easy, no complaints.

Just get him to confirm the price, delivery, insurance and fee's first...

Ill have to get someone who can read Japanese to translate the instructions for me. The only thing i need translated is the colour of the wire that goes into the attessa loom. Theres about 6 different coloured wires, that need to be spliced into the loom, but i cant read Jap so buggered if i know which colour goes to which point!! LOL!!

Sure can check out this link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=69301&hl=

$350, locally made and supported, and engrish instructions.

I am not familiar with the Field controllers but the ones I can get are different to the HKS controllers which use a fixed torque split (not much use except for drag racing). The ones I can get make the standard system more sensitive but dont force it to have front torque all the time, only when you need it

Thats basically the same as the Field device, it simply lets you adjust the stock ATTESSA system to your likeing.

Several owners of GTR's that do track work reccomended them to me, both here and in the USA. But unfortunatley the manufactorers didnt deem it neccesary to have both Jap and Engrish instructions...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 馃珷    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
  • Create New...