Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Engine: Rb25det conversion (rebuilt, forgies), Flowed head/port polish, HKS 275 camshafts, HKS head gasket, Trust Td06-25g turbo, Trust top mount manifold, Trust 50mm waste-gate, Trust front mount intercooler, Trust Oil cooler and relocation filter kit, GReddy Type-R BOV plumbed backed, 850cc injectors, 3inch dump pipe, 3inch dump pipe back exhaust, custom cold air intake box in standard intercooler position, HKS filter, earth wire kit, huge radiator. HKS F-con V.

Suspension And Running Gear: Rebuilt Rb25det gearbox, brand new twin plate OS clutch, Nismo locker diff, Tein adjustable coilovers, Tein tie rod ends. 17inch Nismo rims.

Exterior: Genuine GTR front bar with N1 air slots, Type-M side skirts and rear pods. Blue pearl white respray, Semi clear factory indicators.

Interior: Front and rear GTR seats, Skyline floor mats, custom dash cluster – Auto meter monster tacho, Pivot 350kph digital Speedo, GReddy exhaust temp gauge, GReddy oil temp gauge, GReddy oil presser gauge, Tomei boost gauge, Techtom display unit with shift light, short shifter with Razo gear knob, aircon/heater unit relocated to glove box with HKS F-con, HKS turbo timer and HKS boost controller.

ICE: Jap brand head unit with separate equalizer and aftermarket speakers all round.

490rwhp @ 1.5bar and advanced the timing. Plenty more horse power left to be had if you ditch the F-con, or wait until Matty Spray at PITS gets his F-con softwear up and running, for a retune.

The car has been built as a weekend slider, and street warrior. I don’t have quarter mile times, nor never will due to lack of traction and interest in setting the car up for times. What the car has been BUILT for and gets USED for reflects its condition! People who want a “show car” need not ring; this isn’t the car for you. In saying that – The car is clean and only has minor marks and a few pin dents. The trim and inside is generally clean, the drivers seat has a small rip in it from my belt, dash is mint and has all aircon vents.

Car is owned by an executive, and often sees daily duties, no over heating problems. Been through peak hour morning traffic in Brisbane more then once. Young and inexperienced would-be drivers need not ring either; you won’t get past my gates. I won’t be held accountable from parents for selling a death trap.

I had this car sold 8 weeks ago for $24k unfortunately the sale fell over. I’m asking now $23,500ono. The car owes a lot more but my loss is some one else’s gain. I’m the first Australian owner, and got the car from a broker, genuine reason for sale; lack of interest and need the money for invesments and a new European.

Price: $23,500ono

Location: Noosa Heads, Queensland.

Contact: Josh

Phone: 0407 706 760

Email: [email protected]

Don’t PM as I won’t check it, all general inquiries on cell # during work hours, unless other wise a very serious buyer.

RWC and Rego negotiated pending price.

post-171-1128986151.jpg

post-171-1128986426.jpg

Edited by Nismo_Boy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90680-crazy-big-hp-skyline/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Wow, four people have looked at the car, and two made offers. Unfortunately you'll never get finance if

a ) Your young.

b ) Trying to get it on a car loan.

Stop wasting your own time and mine please.. Other wise I'll just end up keeping more deposits.

People who are cashed up, or have a genuine trade make your best offer?

Edited by Nismo_Boy
Wow, four people have looked at the car, and two made offers. Unfortunately you'll never get finance if

a ) Your young.

b ) Trying to get it on a car loan.

And what evidence do you have to back this up? I'm sorry but i take offence at this as i am 18 and have a $30 000 loan, so please tone down your claims.

BTW nicely tuned car :O

And what evidence do you have to back this up? I'm sorry but i take offence at this as i am 18 and have a $30 000 loan, so please tone down your claims.

BTW nicely tuned car :O

Both people who made offer's needed finance, they both had tried to get the loan on a "car loan" not a personal loan.

Not very many banks (if any at all) will give a "car loan" on an old import that’s modified, not to mention they'll ask you for full comp insurance on the car... Which if you’re young and own an older import that’s seriously modified, the chance of getting the insurance realistically priced is slim.

I have no idea why both parties didn't go for a personal loan, as like you’re self I assume you went the personal loan option? Thus being able to borrow the $30k.

"May trade/swap ect.

Show me what you have to offer."

*unzips pants* this is about all i can offer you.... i dont blame you for not accepting but please do consider as i love your car :P good luck with the sale.

Edited by fEkuaR

I wonder if you'd consider selling it with stock RB25det engine ? for the amount you probably have spent on the car i'd say $23K is a bargain.

Let me know if you're willing to sell your engine -- you have a definite buyer here and will trade you my stock RB25det.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
    • To re-cap, I bought: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8G-Infiniti-Q50-Q60-2014_1601171829627.html?spm=a2756.trade-list-buyer.0.0.2cd476e9FTIlKE As you can see, if I bought 20 it was $653, but I bought 1 so it was $1,170. I was very tempted to buy 2 and resell 1 at 25% cheaper. @MBS206, I am not sure if they do a Kluger one, here is their list but it might be there under a global model name: http://www.lsailt.com/product/android-interface?page=1 Keep in mind these full android replacements have basically all the bits a phone does (cpu, ram, storage, wifi, bluetooth, usb interfaces) other than a screen (it uses a host), thus the $800+ cost. Android Auto screen mirroring is MUCH cheaper as it's just a cut down shell, input mirroring and output mirroring BTW I also need that "screen off" feature, it is much harder to see wildlife even if a dash is reasonably dark. Both the Fuga and V37 have display off buttons for night use, they just come back on for a second or 3 if you interact with it, eg skip a song.
×
×
  • Create New...