Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been meaning to post this up for a few weeks now.

Checked my interior fuse box (the one under the dash) just to compare it to what it says in the manual (a JPNZ ENTERPRISES reconstruction of the original japanese version) and noticed a few irregularities.

The diagram (black background with all the John Madden playmaking arrows ;)) shows where my fuses are located.

Yellow background attachment is a photo I took of a page in the manual (pages are actually white but auto-balance made it go all Indiana Jones-like).

So yeh, basically I think I'm missing one of the 20A Blower Motor fuses, I seem to have 2 fuses for nothing and a 20A fuse for the airbag (which my car doesn't have) which should be a 10A fuse anyway??

What's going on? Is my manual wrong?

Also, how do I go about buying replacement fuses? I had a look last time I was at supercheap but noticed there were different types (some additional rating -not Amperage- which differed) of the same Amperage fuses and didn't know what ones to buy.

thanks!

post-17500-1129648997.jpg

post-17500-1129649841.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91573-interior-fuse-box-problem/
Share on other sites

its all correct, trust me, andthe blower has 2 20A stated because there is 2 blower spots, follow that diagram exactly, yours is stuffed around, go by the diagram you have its right on ..the only thing is that on mine i have a 3 amp on the left hand side on the verticatly at the top for my dash lights.

post-229-1129656516.jpg

Thanks Mick,

The vertical fuse spaces on the left, I thought they were just for holding spares? You said you have a 3A fuse there for your dash lights though?

So I need to remove the fuses in the sixth row down, both left and right side, because they should be empty yeh?

And I could remove the 20A from the airbag fuse spot because my car doesn't have airbags, and put it in the first blower motor spot that has nothing?

is there any reason why you'd have a fuse for the airbag spot when there is no airbag?? lol Dont know what the previous owner did!!

is there anytime you would use the empty fuses spots (sixth row), like for aftermarket accessories or something they may have had?

Thanks again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...