Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im ripping out the rear steering rack on Wednesday and locking up the rear, so no more HICAS.:D

I understand that i have to remove the bulb from the dash to stop the warning light. Does anyone know of a way around this, as i would like to keep the warning light, as the front steering will obvoiusly still be connected.

Driving on circuits for 20mins at a time how hot is the steering fluid likely to get. I was thinking instead of bypassing the fluid that goes to the rear rack, i may run a small oil cooler to keep temps down.

Also how does the HICAS know the rack has been removed and fluid bypassed, i assume its some pressure sensor, would the pressure drop accrosss the core of the cooler fool the HICAS into thinking the rack was still there. I doubt it but not sure what kind of signal is used to out HICAS into fault mode

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9188-hicas-on-r32/
Share on other sites

what are you going to replace the hicas rack with?

i dont think there will be a problem with some of the stuff removed, i have unplugged a couple of plugs for the hicas pump and it dosent affect anything. I removed the steering sensor so mine dosent work at all with no apparent side affects.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9188-hicas-on-r32/#findComment-137919
Share on other sites

G'Day Roy, I just bought an R32 GTS-T that someone spent a fortune modifying. He had a Tomei system installed that stops the rear steering from the Hicas. It also uses something bolted to the rear rack to lock it solid. Sorry I don't know much more yet but a Tomei supplier may have the whole kit. I think it was intalled at East Coast Suspension Kirrawee, ask for Dave.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9188-hicas-on-r32/#findComment-138781
Share on other sites

Yeh been meaning to get my car over to East Coast for some time, but is nowhere near where i live. Plus Whiteline did all the susp on my car and they are a little closer so ill stick with them (Whiteline and Jim are great operators, but wanted to try East Coast on the referral of my mechanic whose cars may not always have huge HP, but always handle real well)

The tomei kit actually has shims that are placed either side of the rack whereby removing any slack (locking it up) and also an interceptor module for the HICAS computer.

I have gone the other way, i will be removing the heavy rack, and ancillary pumps etc for the rear steer and replacing the rack with a tapped bar to screw the tie rods to.

Hopefully save a few kgas as well

I know a lot of people simply unplug the HICAS but i dont like this idea as there is till play in the rear steering? Oh just remembered i have some pics of the Winfield GTR, i may look at how they removed the 4WS.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9188-hicas-on-r32/#findComment-139115
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...