Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im ripping out the rear steering rack on Wednesday and locking up the rear, so no more HICAS.:D

I understand that i have to remove the bulb from the dash to stop the warning light. Does anyone know of a way around this, as i would like to keep the warning light, as the front steering will obvoiusly still be connected.

Driving on circuits for 20mins at a time how hot is the steering fluid likely to get. I was thinking instead of bypassing the fluid that goes to the rear rack, i may run a small oil cooler to keep temps down.

Also how does the HICAS know the rack has been removed and fluid bypassed, i assume its some pressure sensor, would the pressure drop accrosss the core of the cooler fool the HICAS into thinking the rack was still there. I doubt it but not sure what kind of signal is used to out HICAS into fault mode

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9188-hicas-on-r32/
Share on other sites

what are you going to replace the hicas rack with?

i dont think there will be a problem with some of the stuff removed, i have unplugged a couple of plugs for the hicas pump and it dosent affect anything. I removed the steering sensor so mine dosent work at all with no apparent side affects.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9188-hicas-on-r32/#findComment-137919
Share on other sites

G'Day Roy, I just bought an R32 GTS-T that someone spent a fortune modifying. He had a Tomei system installed that stops the rear steering from the Hicas. It also uses something bolted to the rear rack to lock it solid. Sorry I don't know much more yet but a Tomei supplier may have the whole kit. I think it was intalled at East Coast Suspension Kirrawee, ask for Dave.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9188-hicas-on-r32/#findComment-138781
Share on other sites

Yeh been meaning to get my car over to East Coast for some time, but is nowhere near where i live. Plus Whiteline did all the susp on my car and they are a little closer so ill stick with them (Whiteline and Jim are great operators, but wanted to try East Coast on the referral of my mechanic whose cars may not always have huge HP, but always handle real well)

The tomei kit actually has shims that are placed either side of the rack whereby removing any slack (locking it up) and also an interceptor module for the HICAS computer.

I have gone the other way, i will be removing the heavy rack, and ancillary pumps etc for the rear steer and replacing the rack with a tapped bar to screw the tie rods to.

Hopefully save a few kgas as well

I know a lot of people simply unplug the HICAS but i dont like this idea as there is till play in the rear steering? Oh just remembered i have some pics of the Winfield GTR, i may look at how they removed the 4WS.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9188-hicas-on-r32/#findComment-139115
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...