Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya pplz!

I've been going to this website for a while now reading posts etc etc and today I have now finally decided to become a member! (Hooray) So for my first post I just wanted to ask all the R31 Skyline owners if they can gimme a little info about them. I know that there is a post very similar to this one, but I'm not sure it gave all the info I needed for me to finally decide on purchasing one.

So first of all I have about (probably at most) 8k to spend, and judging from the replies in the other post, I have decided on a model around the 88-90's, but I was wandering what was the difference between the Silhouette, GX (GXE?) and executive models (I'm not sure if im right or if I missed any others :D ). I am focusing on a sedan rather than the coupe.

Due to the rising petrol prices (Though its not a major concern), I am also wondering if this car is economical (As I have heard it is) and reliable. I am not thinking about putting a turbo on this car, (As this is my first car and I'd rather wait till im 25) but I would like to give it a little more power than keeping it stock (As it probably will be when I purchase one) so what would be your suggestions?

PS: What paintjob color looks good on them and is it possible see some car pics from some of the members here?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thnks for your time :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92719-more-r31-help-plz-p/
Share on other sites

hey mate have a look here, all the info you want www.r31skylineclub.com

There are two types of R31- the local and the Import.

The local is from 86-90, series 1/2 from 86-88 (rectangle taillights and square frount end) and 88-90 was series 3 ('hotplate' tail lights and newer curved frount end.) They all had Rb30s (pintara, which has the same body as a r31 has the Ca20). Manuals are easy enough to find, but autos are really common. Every Rb engine fits in relatively easy, and Ive seen Cas go in, but not SRs, but I dont think it would be that hard. Youd better off putting a Rb25 twin cam head on a rb30 bottom end (which is done by heaps).

There is GX (econo bog pack) GXE (better) executive (s3 only, repmobile) Silo (sports model, has LSD) and TI (luxury model, auto only). Theres also the GTS models, the s1 ones are white, the s3 ones are red. only 200 of each and they came with lots of extra goodies. Highly desirable cars by r31 lovers, but arent even noticed by most.

Imports came in Coupe form as GTSs, GTSXs, and GTSRs (verey rare). Had the old redtop rb20 turbo. there is also the 4 door one, either the GTS or the passage which is the luxury one. It is pillarless, which is a very cool feature.

8k will get you pretty much any R31 you want, even a local spec GTS (rare). Id get a Import for that money, cause if you modded a GTS every R31 lover would eat you. YOu could also pick up a local spec GX and mod the shit out of it :)

Hey Racsov500!

Thanks alot for all the info, I hope it wasn't an nuisance for you to go to the trouble to write what u have probably written alot, so thanks alot mate! :lol:

I will definately put all ur info into consideration and therefore will most certainly find the car that I will be pleased with. SAU members really know their stuff!

Thnks again :)

no probs mate, but have a real good look at the tech info section of the R31 forums. everything you need to know, and anything else there will be a thread on it.

Good to see interest in the 31 :)

With 8k id buy GTS31s car (a beautiful black GTS 4 door turbo auto) and get a manual conversion, and go from there. Very cheap tto for what it is.

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=31102.0

Id gladly do something very disgusting to get this car.

8k won't get you pretty much any R31 you want. GTS-x's MIGHT only just creep under that mark, well, good condition ones won't be under that mark anyway. Spose you could browse around, they might even be starting to hit those prices *shrugs*.

I got my last one for 11k, but i had a fair bit of work done to it before i bought it so yea.

next one i have in my sights is going for $11 900, but it's pushing over 200rwkw so money well spent :)

You could find any type of R31 for 8k. You could get a GTS1 or a poor condition GTS2, you could get a coupe or a 4 door. And you could get a shockingly good condition aus spec Ti or silo.

not talking about cars that are already modded.

Yeah i've seen one going for $8200, but personally I thought it was a bit overpriced. It was in good cond, but not showroom condition.

Don't often hear that someone is going to spend $8k on an r31 but doesn't want it to be turboed.

Obviously you should get extractors, exhaust, pod filter. If you want more power you could get better cams but it is expensive. Better off getting a turbo or putting in a turbo half-cut.

But yeah, check the r31 skyline club website, you should find all the info you need.

yea suppose you could get a stocker good condition coupe for 8 k or something, or reasonable condition. I think that's how much my base one was, 144000k's, great condition interior (cept for two small cigarette burns on driver's seat), came with original floor matts too.

Cept i did an engine swap etc etc

had an 87 white manual turbo coupe, GTS-x

GTS-R spoiler, some limited rims or some bullshit, which were white.

I did a silvertop ECCS engine transplant, custom turbo back 3" exhaust, 3" hi-flow cat and X-force stainless muffler with 4" tip, pod, turbosmart single stage boost controller, and a new clutch

can't remember anything else

The guy I know that has one said he got it for $17k. I'm not sure if hes telling the truth. It might only have gts-r stickers or something.

Is there a way to tell?

I know that there were only 200 produced but they don't seem much different to a gts-x. The differences are roughly the same as a wrx to an sti.

SVD plate etc, or something on the chassis, google search will prolly reveal the answers, as i don't have them all :)

there are differences, e.g power output. GTS-R's put out something like 300hp, if not a little more

they came with a large FMIC, upgraded turbo, ECU, exhaust, better boost, limited edition BBS rims etc.

The whole GTS-x/GTS-R thing is like the GTS-t/GT-R thing, allot of people tried to copy them, and some people got ripped, cept the GTS-x/GTS-R thing was much, well, smaller/less popular.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...