Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have edited the title since the mechanic updated me on my BAD situation.

Not only are my solenoids shagged, but there's metal chunks sitting in the bottom of the pan casing. sad.gif

I need to pick up another gearbox. Could get another auto, or if the price isn't drastically different, might be better to go the manual conversion.

Any idea of where to start to get spares in melb, or interstate if cheaper?

Thanks,

Dave.

Hi Guys,

Yesterday my car got stuck in third gear & won't move no matter where you shift the auto. (No Park, Reverse, 1st 2nd or 4th) :D

Could this most likely be a result of the ECU going into limp home mode?

Can this be reset by removing the battery? I guess it depends on whether this is stored in RAM or ROM.

It's just weird that it happened straight away and wasn't a gradual thing.

I do respect my car & do really give it a flogging, which I'd like to think is reason for nothing too major to be wrong.

Any ideas most appreciated guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93012-wtb-gearbox-for-r34/
Share on other sites

So I am presuming you have switched the car off and then on again because that fixes the problem with my car.

I would try an ECU reset for sure.

Perhaps one of the solenoids has died. Check the manual, you can download it from here somewhere.

So I am presuming you have switched the car off and then on again because that fixes the problem with my car.

I would try an ECU reset for sure.

Perhaps one of the solenoids has died.  Check the manual, you can download it from here somewhere.

Good guessing guys.

I nursed it down to the local Nissan Dealer around the corner & they hookup the the Consult device to the ECU.

**************************

The printout said:

DTC RESULTS

SHIFT SOLENOID/V A

MANUAL MODE SW

ENGINE BRAKE C\U

**************************

hOPEFULLY IT'S JUST THAT, BUT THERE WAS A NASTY SOUND WHEN i TOOK IT UP THEIR DRIVEWAY :(

Just waiting on a call back this arvo from the service manager with a report.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...