Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm thinking about getting come HPC coating done and want to do it all in one hit.

For me the HPC will serve 2 purposes:

1. reduce heat since i'll be running a bar or so of boost

2. It looks good.

What should I have done to cover both bases?

Will it give me a increase in performance?

What parts should I polish instead of HPC?

Lastly, i've never seen any pricing on HPC coating. What will it cost?

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9341-hpc/
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

I was looking at getting my exhaust manifold coated so I gave these guys a call, it's about $550 to get the exhaust manifold coated.

If your after serious performance then you should ceramic coat the exhaust manifold and turbo exhaust housing. HPC coat the intercooler pipes, most important is the intake manifold pipe.

I think that with a combination of HPC, cold air induction you will see a decent performance improvement due to the cooler intake temperatures. Don't forget that heat wrapping will provide similar results, but it doesn't look as good.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9341-hpc/#findComment-140502
Share on other sites

I'm new to this process, but I understand the advantage of HPC and ceramic coat ( I always though that hot gas will run faster..), however does ceramic coat can apply on "any" surface? for example, I have a set of trust stainless manifold and mild steal..dump + front pipe, should I ceramic coat the them? or just the manifold?

I know the heat warpping, but does it capable to handle 1200+ temperture? thanks..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9341-hpc/#findComment-140723
Share on other sites

I've just ordered a stainless dump pipe, and have a Trust mild steel front pipe. I called HPC (www.hpcoatings.com.au) last week and the guy quoted me $66 per foot for piping. I figured that because hot gas travels quicker, and the next main restriction is the cat, that this would be enough of the exhaust system to do.

PS they need 5 days to do the coating.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9341-hpc/#findComment-140896
Share on other sites

sidewaymambo,

You can ceramic coat just about any metal surface, if it has already been used then they will need to clean it and bake it so that the ceramic coat will stick. Ceramic coating is best for exhaust manifold, dump pipe, front pipe and turbo exhaust housing. I think if you want to do intercooler pipes then either use heat wrap or HPC.

The heat wrap will work fine in high temperatures like on your exhaust manifold, just make sure you buy the right stuff, and not some cheap brand.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9341-hpc/#findComment-140901
Share on other sites

Keep me up-to-date on any quotes you get for the HPC coating.

What sort of performance gains would I realise if I get the exhaust manifold, turbo exhaust housing and intake manifold pipe as VSPEC suggested? and has anyone got any ball park figures for this work - I cant call them while i'm at work.

I might leave them an email instead.

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9341-hpc/#findComment-141718
Share on other sites

I'm with steve. If we can organize a group 'coating' maybe it will be cheaper. I will call them tomorrow and see if they will do a group discount, and if so start a new thread and will try and organise it with HPC. Not sure how we can logistically do it - send all parts to me and then to HPC? or send them individually?

If i organise it probably keep it to the Vic boys and girls, just it is easier than doing everywhere. I will keep you posted, check here and if i start a new thread i'll link it to here.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9341-hpc/#findComment-141955
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...