Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Couldn't really find to much info when i searched. Other then oil squirters on the pistons? And 10.5 compression compared to 8.5 in the det?

Does anyone know what the differences are between the rb20de and the rb20det?

Just done the big end bearing in the det, and have got a de motor. Put a highmount manifold on it, series 2 (steel wheel?) rb25 turbo, external gate, walbro fuel pump, sard fpr, safc 2 with a cheap boost controller, front mount and 3" exaust.

Not really to sure of the power i'm expecting, or even how much power the de will handle before it pops.

Has anyone got any differences on the 2? How much boost they can handle? What sort of power figure i am looking at (Been told high 200hp with a fair bit of boost)

Just a bit worried as it's just been dropped into the car and is havin the gate and turbo fitted this weekend. Gets tuned some time during the week, wanna make sure i don't push it to hard or whatnot.

Regards,

Chris.

Edited by 51OWW
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93718-rb20det/
Share on other sites

No piston oil squirters in the n/a I believe.

You could pull the sump off the n/a and double check for us though.

Static compression is also much higher, up around the 10.5:1.

As its running quite a high static comp it will be very interestering how it goes with the Rb25 turbo.

You say you've bolted an external gate on it?!?! The RB25 turbo is internal or have you welded up the internal gate?

With such a high static comp ratio it will feel very N/A like, you won't need much boost to make good power but thats pretty much where it ends.. You will be limited with the amount of power you can make.

With an rb25 turbo I'm sure you will get close to the 260-270rwhp mark.

I would use the cams from the DET head (cams are slightly bigger) and use a pair of adjustable cam gears to dial in some overlap.

It will be fine with good tuning and good fuel...

Just be sure to keep a close eye on those knock levels via the pfc h/c.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93718-rb20det/#findComment-1692907
Share on other sites

Rb25 is internal gate, but been modded to run external (not by choice, with the top mount it doesnt fit between the turbo and the motor :D)

I might stick with ~250rwhp for a while just to see how the motor holds up... Initial plans where to gas it and see what happened, though, i gotta get the det rebuilt first. (main reason i haven't played with cams etc) 250 in the silvia should be enough to keep me drift happy for a lil while anyway.

pfc? Be nice to have, but i went el cheapo safc aha - not 100% sure if it's got knock sensor... actually come to think of it, it might do - i remember it had something over the emanage that made me buy it? *shrugs*

Also just noticed there was a thread in the na section relating to this topic, so i've had a read through that. :( Though, noones actually said what power it'll take to blow the lil de...

Regards,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93718-rb20det/#findComment-1693030
Share on other sites

Using the SAFC in your position is quite a bad thing.

If its running rich and you lean it out your telling the ecu there is less air entering the motor to get decent afr's.

As a result you shift up on the load map. As you move up the map closer to the idle and light cruise load points the map contains much higher ignition timing. Of which is very very bad for such a high comp motor.

The SAFC II monitors knock i believe.

The DE will be fine providing the tuning is good. That being no detonation and good afr's.

Good luck... Your going to need it without being able to manipulate ign. timing. :D

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93718-rb20det/#findComment-1693186
Share on other sites

B) She's apples. Hopefully i'll get out of it ok, and have a reasonably reliable motor...

Anything else i should be monitoring though while it's on the dyno? I'm not tuning it personally, though, have a mate doing it :P He seems to know what he's doing ahaha.

Regards,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93718-rb20det/#findComment-1693399
Share on other sites

*sigh*

Had the motor up and running today, drove it 100m, without the safc (just to see if it drove) Bam! Turbo blew up. exaust wheels are smashed, really bad :cheers: and, there also seems to be a knocking from the engine - maybe lifters, though, i fear another big end bearing :D Thats what the last engine was replaced for, what a waste of money for 100m test drive. Coulda got a lot of taxi rides with it :(

Throwing another turbo on it tonight - hopefully it'll run fine... *fingers crossed* though i doubt it. Very much. ;)

Regards,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93718-rb20det/#findComment-1695967
Share on other sites

Oh well. Suppose i better keep it updated.

Chucked a new rb25 turbo on it. Drove ok, though, didn't get up it (not tuned)

at the moment its just high mount, rb25 turbo, external gate, exaust, front mount. So i was a bit iffy to get up it, just let the gate open up then i'd change.

Drove 2k's - 2nd turbo blew up.

Pulled it off, the manifold has bits of weld on the inside falling off, going through the exhaust wheel. So, not good. Getting that fixed up tomorrow, then putting, yet another rb25 turbo on it :D

Probably won't have a chance to boost it hard and see how it goes compared to the old det until it's tuned. Which should be about another week...

Also after turbo died, we checked compression

160 accross all except 140 cyl.3 So, it's not that far of the det's ratings at the moment. So i really doubt there will be much change if it was just a straight swap.

Regards,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93718-rb20det/#findComment-1704622
Share on other sites

Just an update.

Got the manifold all cleaned - put the new rb25 turbo on it. Took it for a drive and it was all sweet for about 5k's.

Then bam. Motor is not very healthy ahah. Piston rings are initial thoughts, though, won't know until the motor is pulled apart.

Note to self - buy a pushbike.

Regards,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93718-rb20det/#findComment-1726776
Share on other sites

Yer it looks as though it's going to be off the roads for a little while. Still haven't pulled te motor out to actually see what went wrong. Not really sure which motor will be better to fix up - big end bearings on the det, or something (hopefully minor) piston related on the de.

*sigh*

Gotta love cars. :(

Regards,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93718-rb20det/#findComment-1743905
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Sticking with the det motor, fixing the big end bearing and whatever else is mangled.

Shouldn't be *to* much longer, hopefully, it'll last a little whlie this time ahah.

Maybe i'll drive it like a grandma :P

Regards,

Chris.

let me know how you go with big-end and main bearings, as ive been told that everyone lists the wrong ones for the DET, im doing my silvertop at the moment, i have a DE motor here and was going to do the same as you but now i think i will pass on that idea

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93718-rb20det/#findComment-1781073
Share on other sites

Aha, good idea staying away from the de motor. It'd probably be fine with good tuning etc, but, i'll never risk it again.

The guy i have rebuilding the rb20det, plays with them all the time - so he shouldn't stuff it up :D Though, i haven't gotten through to him in about 2 weeks, has stopped answering the phone. Aha. I windge and complain alot though, so i don't blame him. Will answer it the day it's ready so i can't windge at him :( Ahah

Hopefully b4 christmas :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93718-rb20det/#findComment-1783715
Share on other sites

hey does anyone know the difference between the DET head and the DE head as mine have different part numbers on the casting, maybe cause the DE came out of a ceriro?

The DE engine cylinder head have smaller combustion chambers. I have not yet measured them, but you can see the difference in the depth between the two. All of the other parts like valves,cams,springs and the like are different but you can interchanged them without too much trouble.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93718-rb20det/#findComment-1788798
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 😂  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
×
×
  • Create New...