Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i had 'exhaust tech' in adelaide install the front mount. they used a rb25det kit (r32, 33 i think). the front bar needed to be modified a bit, nothing too serious, just a trim. the cooler fits perfectly you can hardly even notice it. the pipe work required one hole to be cut in the body and the window washer bottle was replaced (too big).

sorry i cant really give a step by step guide as i had this item proffesionally installed. i did watch the whole process so i may be able to answer specific questions.

cheers, doug.

ps, this car will be advertised on carsales.com soon and also local adelaide papers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93976-wanted/page/2/#findComment-1724494
Share on other sites

Well, as he said, it seems the R33 GTST one lines up all fine and stuff. So any hybrid/chinese style cooler pipes.

So basically, any jap pipe kit would work, but the issues with those pipes kits is that you have cut a hole in the body under the battery tray, where here in tightass victoria, that could cause problems with the po-leece. Naturally, the water bottle needed to be moved, ive noticed that in the stagea they are extra extra large (i think i put 3L in mine last time i filled it up)

Its good to know now that the R33 GTST pipes fit. Thanks mate.

Edited by AlexCim
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93976-wanted/page/2/#findComment-1724567
Share on other sites

yeah, the washer bottle does the front and back. its also got 2 motors on it. the one that i had put in is from a s15 i think and only has one pump. so when i squirt the water i wash the front and back at the same time!! its actually pretty cool.

my stagea is silver. (and for sale, and in ADELAIDE :)

yep, the r33 kits do the job perfectly, they come with instructions for those who are techinally minded. also you have to trim the radiator fan, i forgot that bit, its in the instructions...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93976-wanted/page/2/#findComment-1725601
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...