Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

just developed some kind of a problem with my r33. Some liquid is pouring out from the engine when i switch off my car. I dont know if its been happening before but i noticed a hissing sound and saw under the car, there is a liquid thats falling out.

Its not the colour of oil and its falling out from the middle part of the engine. Any ideas? Smells a bit like coolant but i'm not too sure.

pls help,

cheers!

sanjeet

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94485-somebody-pls-advice/
Share on other sites

You need to describe the liquid a bit better. Whats the exact colour? Is it thick? Thin? Exactly where from the motor is it dripping from?

A pic would be best if you could post it up. It could even just be water from your air conditioner..

thanks guys,

the liquid is very thin, just like water. although it has some kind of a smell, it tried touchin it but there was no colour on my fingers.

I never use my aircon, may be its coolant or water...

Remember there was a hiss sound i heard even 5 mins after turning off my engine.

What do you friends suggest?

thanks guys,

the liquid is very thin, just like water. although it has some kind of a smell, it tried touchin it but there was no colour on my fingers.

I never use my aircon, may be its coolant or water...

Remember there was a hiss sound i heard even 5 mins after turning off my engine.

What do you friends suggest?

I thought the hissing sound is from the fuel line depressurising?

could be a tiny split on one of the heater hoses? try to get underneath the car and follow where its coming from, if possible

If its the middle of the motor you may want to check for weeps around the welsh plugs. I have seen a few reports of R33's with 75000 and more on the motor developing this problem. While its hot its just steam ? doe you get a radiator sorta smell when u lift the bonnet. When u switch the car off the motor and coolant looses temprature the metal contracts and the pressure in the waterjacket drops. The hiss and leak then stops.

Edited by sparkmanv11

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...