Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

im lead to beleive tenagah sell it..

Unit 4 / 12 Buckingham Drive, Wangara, Western Australia, 6065

Telephone: (08) 9408 0600

Mobile: 0433 213 106

Fax: (08) 9408 0533

Email: [email protected]

Steve,

I'd say go and get a total tune geared for the toluene, and consistantly run the same mixture if thats the case. If you have an ecu with provision for two maps then it's much easier I guess. Otherwise if it's a PFC then go into the Settings and tune using the adjustment so the entire map for ingnition and then fuel. It's less accurate but easy to remember and change on the fly afterwards.

The best thing to do is to pre-mix the toluene in a larger sealed container (fuel can) with fuel before adding it to the tank. Investing in a good system to pump it into the tank is a good idea as well as the funnels tend to be messy.

Edited by rev210

Josh, the rule of thumb that I use is 5% for every 1 RON, so 96 ron to 98 would be 10% - this is slightly overestimating, but would see you right AFAIK

Keefy, Tolulene is a aromatic hydrocarbon. It has several uses, including a cleaning solvent, paint stripper, making explosives and fuel additive to raise its resistance to knock.

It is, afaik, used by some fuel manufacturers for exactly that purpose, and it works quite well. I beleive F1 used to use high percentages of tolulene in their cars many years back.

I have found its a handy additive if you intend giving your car an unusually hard thrash, or even driving in the country where there is no 98 ron available (long interstate trips) just to keep knock under control. If you retune your car (as Rev210 suggests) you will get even better results as you can increase timing - because of the greater resistance to knock.

It will be very handy should I run out of 98 ron due to these bloody bp shenanigans :(

Never heard of that one. Octane boosters will often contain tolulene to boost the octane. Remember and octane booster will raise the octane by 4 points, which would take 96 ron to 96.4 ron - doesnt really help if you are chasing 98 ron.

Tolulene is added to petrol by the manufacturers to boost its octane rating (resistance to knock) - it will clean your fuel system, but it wont foul it. I have never had a problem, most I have used is 4L with round 30L in the tank - so approx 13%.

Rev210, how much have you used before?

Octane boosters usually double up injector cleaners, for the better ones. Maybe if u buy the cheap ass ones it will for all u know, but if u were to buy the better ones, it's good.

AFAIK, there are different specifications for octane boosters.

http://www.nitrous.com.au/products.html << this is one such example, which i've heard from workshops is effective. But to what extent, i don't really know. Anyone know if it works?

I've used this stuff for years.

Toluene is not used in modern off the shelf octane boosters and is used far less these days in basic fuels. There is a push to reduce the aromatic content of fuels such that BP98 doesn't contain very much by way of it at all, pick up a brouchure and it says the % from memory only about 7%?. Why you ask? because it's pollution and bad smell all the way ;) oh and catylitic converters don't like it.

up to 35-40% aromatic content in your fuel is fine if you tune for it.

the F1 turbo cars ran 79psi of boost and made 1,000hp and the base fuel was pure toluene with n-heptane thrown in to actually reduce the octane number to comply with regs, developed for the Honda turbo's at the time (alan prosts favorite from memory) the term 'rocket fuel' was coined at this time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...