Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

im lead to beleive tenagah sell it..

Unit 4 / 12 Buckingham Drive, Wangara, Western Australia, 6065

Telephone: (08) 9408 0600

Mobile: 0433 213 106

Fax: (08) 9408 0533

Email: [email protected]

Steve,

I'd say go and get a total tune geared for the toluene, and consistantly run the same mixture if thats the case. If you have an ecu with provision for two maps then it's much easier I guess. Otherwise if it's a PFC then go into the Settings and tune using the adjustment so the entire map for ingnition and then fuel. It's less accurate but easy to remember and change on the fly afterwards.

The best thing to do is to pre-mix the toluene in a larger sealed container (fuel can) with fuel before adding it to the tank. Investing in a good system to pump it into the tank is a good idea as well as the funnels tend to be messy.

Edited by rev210

Josh, the rule of thumb that I use is 5% for every 1 RON, so 96 ron to 98 would be 10% - this is slightly overestimating, but would see you right AFAIK

Keefy, Tolulene is a aromatic hydrocarbon. It has several uses, including a cleaning solvent, paint stripper, making explosives and fuel additive to raise its resistance to knock.

It is, afaik, used by some fuel manufacturers for exactly that purpose, and it works quite well. I beleive F1 used to use high percentages of tolulene in their cars many years back.

I have found its a handy additive if you intend giving your car an unusually hard thrash, or even driving in the country where there is no 98 ron available (long interstate trips) just to keep knock under control. If you retune your car (as Rev210 suggests) you will get even better results as you can increase timing - because of the greater resistance to knock.

It will be very handy should I run out of 98 ron due to these bloody bp shenanigans :(

Never heard of that one. Octane boosters will often contain tolulene to boost the octane. Remember and octane booster will raise the octane by 4 points, which would take 96 ron to 96.4 ron - doesnt really help if you are chasing 98 ron.

Tolulene is added to petrol by the manufacturers to boost its octane rating (resistance to knock) - it will clean your fuel system, but it wont foul it. I have never had a problem, most I have used is 4L with round 30L in the tank - so approx 13%.

Rev210, how much have you used before?

Octane boosters usually double up injector cleaners, for the better ones. Maybe if u buy the cheap ass ones it will for all u know, but if u were to buy the better ones, it's good.

AFAIK, there are different specifications for octane boosters.

http://www.nitrous.com.au/products.html << this is one such example, which i've heard from workshops is effective. But to what extent, i don't really know. Anyone know if it works?

I've used this stuff for years.

Toluene is not used in modern off the shelf octane boosters and is used far less these days in basic fuels. There is a push to reduce the aromatic content of fuels such that BP98 doesn't contain very much by way of it at all, pick up a brouchure and it says the % from memory only about 7%?. Why you ask? because it's pollution and bad smell all the way ;) oh and catylitic converters don't like it.

up to 35-40% aromatic content in your fuel is fine if you tune for it.

the F1 turbo cars ran 79psi of boost and made 1,000hp and the base fuel was pure toluene with n-heptane thrown in to actually reduce the octane number to comply with regs, developed for the Honda turbo's at the time (alan prosts favorite from memory) the term 'rocket fuel' was coined at this time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...