Atessa Problem? Help Please!

[PhilGTR]

Hi everyone, I recently purchased an R32 GTR, but there seems to be an problem with the torque split system but im not sure 100% if it is, i will describe here what i have noticed and hope someone here has an idea of whats wrong.

Everynow and then when im just crusing along, with a bit of throttle usually in 3rd or 4th gear doing city speeds at around 2-3k rpm i notice that the torque split gauge is flickering a little bit, the needle moves up and down and it makes the car a bit unsmooth when it is running. Feels like it is constantly changing between front and rear wheel drive. But this hasnt affected the performance of it though, it still goes hard when i put my foot down but just very annoying. I have taken it down to a workshop and they plugged it into a diagnosis thing to check for error codes, but there were none.

Does anyone have a similar problem or have any idea what the problem could be? The car is stock standard by the way.

Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks in advanced!

[Bozz]

Phil,

It *may* be a dodgy wiring connection or ABS wheel sender. These usually show up as a fault code on the 4WD/ABS computer in the boot as intermittent faults are typically logged.

On the other hand, it might be getting dodgy signals from the wheels so the computer is thinking there is wheel slip and its engaging 4WD. I've repaired this once before and all it took was unplugging and replugging in the ABS wheel speed senders (which also tell the ECU when to engage 4WD by difference of speed).

Try that and failing it, let us know.

Cheers

[PhilGTR]

Thanks Bozz! Much appreciated! I will give that a go.

Phil

[SLOGTR]

Just to back Bozz up,, mine done the same, it was a faulty ABS sensor,,, even stopped the brakes working properly was really annoying.

[PhilGTR]

Just to back Bozz up,, mine done the same, it was a faulty ABS sensor,,, even stopped the brakes working properly was really annoying.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

So where are these abs sensors and wheel speed sensors located? Should I take it to a workshop to get it checked?

[The Dan]

If checking those comes up trumps then it will be your 4wd pump located above the diff. Have had a few GTR's and GTS4's with this problem now and it doesn't matter how many times you bleed the system, change gearboxes or transfers it always ends up being the pump. Check out the sensors first though.

[PhilGTR]

Hi can someone tell me where you can buy abs sensors for r32 gtr's? Thanks

[The Dan]

Nissan.

Give them your VIN and they will be able to get them from Japan if they don't already have them on the shelf.

your VIN should start with 6U90000BNCR32 or somthing similar.

[gun32gtr]

hey i sort have same prob,it moves the gauge even when not under load sometimes,also my breaks are dead set bad as,could i have the same prob?

[PhilGTR]

hey i sort have same prob,it moves the gauge even when not under load sometimes,also my breaks are dead set bad as,could i have the same prob?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

yeah my sguage is constantly moving, like its always in 4wd mode even when i drive normally. But my brakes are okay though. I reckon we both got dodgy abs wheel speed sensors

[gun32gtr]

where is the abs sender so i can unplug it and see whats happen with my car

[N1GTR]

This sort of thing happens in my one aswel - when the awd split is changing does your GTR shake a bit???

Are you in Sydney??

[GTRsean]

Only time I've seen that happen in mine is when i go over bumps on the road and see the torque gauge flicker up the scale, if i lift my foot off the throttle for a sec it goes back to normal.

[N1GTR]

When it goes up is there any vibration?

[PhilGTR]

This sort of thing happens in my one aswel - when the awd split is changing does your GTR shake a bit???

Are you in Sydney??

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah mine shakes a bit when it flickers. very annoying!

[N1GTR]

Yesterday i had the car down at the workshop fixing a torn CV boot, and found what causes this vibration!!!!!

Will post up more details when i have more time

[PhilGTR]

Yesterday i had the car down at the workshop fixing a torn CV boot, and found what causes this vibration!!!!!

Will post up more details when i have more time

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Looking forward to your findings!

[Amaru]

Before you go wasting money on ABS sensors, check your tyre tread... even minimal wear will cause what you are talking about (mine does it too when the rears start to wear down a bit). Its because the rear wheels are now a different rolling diameter to the front (only slightly, but enough to make the torque guage move around when cruising and make the car jerk around a bit).

[PhilGTR]

Before you go wasting money on ABS sensors, check your tyre tread... even minimal wear will cause what you are talking about (mine does it too when the rears start to wear down a bit). Its because the rear wheels are now a different rolling diameter to the front (only slightly, but enough to make the torque guage move around when cruising and make the car jerk around a bit).

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah i asked a mechanic today who owns an r32 gtr and he said the same thing as you. that the different wheel sizes will cause different rotational speed. And I have noticed this has been happening after I got two new front tyres only, and the rear ones are worn. So i will probably have an excuse to get 4 brand new rims instead :lol:

[N1GTR]

Ok, now i have a bit more time,

We had to replace a broken CV boot on the right hand side, at the same time it was time for a little investigation into the problem, as soon as the CV was off the car the 2 guys in the workshop (Simon and Nathan) saw the problem.

There are 3 symetrical "dents" in the end of the CV housing from the roller part (sorry lack of technical speak) from where the two had clearly been bashing each other for a long time.

Also there was a lip formed at the other end that looked to be caused by the driveshaft grinding away at this point.

Nathan got rid of the lipped sections and put the front back together.

I took it for a drive to get it to shake, it will still shake a TINY bit but only after one of those huge speed humps where the car gets all 4 wheels on it (the type outside most schols). This is really no problem as you can simply wait for the rears to be back on the road and then accelerate. By doing this there is no shaking at all.

Hope this helps guys.

(total cost inc new genuine CV boot was only a few hundred - a small price to pay to solve this issue)