Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. This isn't a definate guide, but I just couldn't wait to put them in.

Also, im not sure if everything is 100% correct (actually I doubt it), but I put them in and they work... Also, this is for the H1 kit installed on a R33 GTST S1 Skyline, yours may not be exactly the same, but I guess the theory would be the same. This is from the Bankids group buy.

First take out the old globe assembly. The dust cover just screws off and the old globe is clipped into place. You have to make a small cut in the dust cover to push the wires and grommet out of the dust cap backwards so that it can be 'modified'. 'The Modifier' is my tool of choice, makes easy work of the plastic.

post-10683-1131787312.jpgpost-10683-1131787418.jpgpost-10683-1131787462.jpgpost-10683-1131787527.jpgpost-10683-1131787492.jpg

Basically we want to make room for the HID assembly and grommet attached. I used a 25mm hole saw drill bit thingy, but cut it however you want. Basically the hole must be about 25mm or 1inch if your american.

post-10683-1131787670.jpg

Be carefully with these and be sure to always wear appropriate safety equipment as shown in the picture. Once you cut the whole for the 25mm grommet, drill another hole with a 8mm or similar drill bit. It should look something similar to this after (but hopefully neater).

post-10683-1131789594.jpg

post-10683-1131787756.jpg

This is for putting the original wires into the sealed chamber where it was before.

post-10683-1131787831.jpg

Once these are pushed through and you can confirm that its pretty well air tight, crimp the old connectors to the new HID connectors, they were a bit of a different size on mine, but just make do.

I found that if your working on the wiring, the best bet is to put the HID globe back into its cannister so that it doesnt get knocked around also apparently you cant touch the glass of the new globe as it will create hotspots and decrease the life.

Once this is crimped, best to put a bit of electrical tape around these connections so that + doesnt touch -. If anyone has any better suggestions, do tell, but i'd say this would be the best bet. Next put the new HID globe where the old one sat previously. Screw the dust cover back on and that light is done. To ensure a watertight seal, i'd suggest a bit of sikaflex around it. You can pickup a caulking gun's worth of sikaflex automotive for about $15 from bunnings which is bloody handy for fixing leaks in bodykits, lights etc.. and a tube will last you forever

post-10683-1131787913.jpg

Basically the other light is the same. I found that the drivers side is a bit harder to get to because of the washer bottle, but the air filter side (if you have a pod) is piece of piss to get to.

Once these lights are mounted, the next thing id suggest is to mount the ballasts and relay/fuse wiring. I put the relay/fuse wiring just to the drivers side of the radiator as there was a pre drilled hole so I just cable tied it to it, also it gave me enough length in the cable to stretch across to the passenger side lights.

post-10683-1131788400.jpg

The relays/fuse basically have 2 wires that connect to +12v and 2 wires that goto Ground (-). I ran my positive cables to the fuse box where i saw a + terminal screw, which I just screwed to the top of. The negative cables I just used the screw that was holding my strut brace on because it is earthed to the body.

post-10683-1131788103.jpg

I ran the relay/fuse cabling across the underside channel in front of the radiator and cable tied using existing pre drilled holes.

Make sure that you mount the balasts to the plate provided, im guessing this is because the balasts cannot be earthed, and a plastic set of grommets seperate them. I used the screws/bolts that came with the back to mount together. Then the backing/mounting plate can be mounted to your car.

post-10683-1131787987.jpg

I mounted the ballasts near the strut towers on either side, but i guess you can mount them anywhere you like as long as it doesn't interfere with anything, is pretty safe from the elements and you have enough cable to get to the lights. The drivers side again mounted to the strut brace bolt, and the passenger side to the air filter bracket (if you have a pod that is)

post-10683-1131788024.jpgpost-10683-1131788070.jpg

This is a pic showing you the difference between the light, disregard my headlights, they're faded to hell, I have to polish them tonight :D

post-10683-1131788304.jpg

I hope this helped some of you anyway. It's a work in progress... Let me know if I missed something or you need some clarifcation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94627-hid-light-install-guide/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

safety first mate :huh:

PS.. i took the car out tonight and damn they're bright. I thought it was day light, but my parkers look like indicators now they're that different. Is there just a whiter globe you can get for the park lights for R33, not HID, but something that blends to it a bit, otherwise im cop bait :O

Yeah, u can get aftermarket globes for ur parkers what are white. Try lookin around. I'm goin back to SG to get mine. Prolly 10aud for a set. If pple are interested, i can post them over when i'm back home. Definitely would be cheaper that what u can get here. But what size it the parkers in the first place? Is there even a size specification on them? If u want to DIY, look at the main section DIY forum. There is a tutorial on how to convert ur existing parkers into LED ones. Would set u back less than 10 for them i think. And LEDs last wayyy long, prolly as long as ur HID's. :huh:

Oh yeah, nice tutorial! =)

btw when you first turn on your new HID make sure you run them for atleast 10 mins. this is the burn in period, i found a few xenon forums and sites sugested this for a longer life of your coponents.

I also found that if you used the factory headlight harness to power your balast that my lights flickerd when at idle, to avoid this use the relay harness ben has for the xenon kit :huh:

post-9760-1131818720.jpg

post-9760-1131819321.jpg

post-9760-1131819623.jpg

post-9760-1131819883.jpg

when i did mine, i cant be brother to grill a hole on the cover, as i might keep it when i sell my car.

only tapped as much as i can, and i didnt do the relay...doggy backyard DIY.

and the plate the came with kit are metal...not sure if thet cant be earthed...

when you switch on you HID, did it flash for a second and start warm up?

when i did mine, i cant be brother to grill a hole on the cover, as i might keep it when i sell my car.

only tapped as much as i can, and i didnt do the relay...doggy backyard DIY.

and the plate the came with kit are metal...not sure if thet cant be earthed...

when you switch on you HID, did it flash for a second and start warm up?

All hid will flash when u start them, it's the ignition phase of the hid. If you notice about the metal plate, there is plastic shielding btw the ballast and the metal, so it's shielded. :P Also, do intstal the relay, it supplies sufficient voltage. If u don't supply sufficinet voltage, you'll find out that ur hid kit will wear out very fast. Esp ur bulb/globe.

Cheers :)

when i did mine, i cant be brother to grill a hole on the cover, as i might keep it when i sell my car.

only tapped as much as i can, and i didnt do the relay...doggy backyard DIY.

and the plate the came with kit are metal...not sure if thet cant be earthed...

when you switch on you HID, did it flash for a second and start warm up?

No offence.. but is that in english?

If you didnt grill (im guessing you mean drill) a hole in the cover, how did you get it to work?

Hey great tute!

I have a different HID kit which I haven't installed yet. It didn't come with a ballast bracket. How else could I go about mounting it, can I insulate it or would it be best to make my own bracket up?

Also is it true that you should keep the ballast box as far away possible from the engine cause of too much heat?

For the heat issue, as long as u don't mount it onto anything that generates heat, u'll be fine :D Another thing is, if ur ballast is metal, double sided tape, the 3M spongey kind, would be good enough, as they stick like hell and they insulate too. Of course remember to swab the area with alcohol to clean off the dirt for better adhesion. Usually aftermarket hid kits, from what i've noticed how it's installed by workshops, they mount around the area of how it's mounted in this tutorial. It's spacious, easily accessible, and makes installation a whole lot easier.

Hid kits usually don't have any mounting plates, most of them come already in plastic covers. Some pple says it's better, some pple says the metal ones are better. But if you were to look at the 2 major brands, phillips and hellas, the phillips ones are plastic, and the hella ones are metal. So, i guess it's up to personal preference.

Cheers! :D

i put the relay harness in when i installed my hid kit.. i connected the positive to the battery and earthed the negative to the body of the car. been driving around for a few days now, but just last night i started noticing the lights start to flicker going brighter/darker sometimes? anyone know why its flickering even with the relay harness on?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
    • Hi, Will the R33 GTR rear brake backing plates fit a GTST? I'm struggling to find GTST ones but can find new GTR ones.   Thanks.
    • I also got the same floor mats for a bit of extra bazzaz haha
×
×
  • Create New...