Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So ive decided i need one, but not sure which path to take.

New japanese kit sell for a litttle over $1000, this includes braided lines, thermostat, relief valve, and remote filler.

Locally courced parts to make a kit can be bought for about $600. This includes remote filler, braided lines. The B&M Kits have an optional thermostat, whilst Earls type dont.

So question is given Sydneys 5-35 deg weather is a thermostat really needed? I like the idea of running a relief valve but would like to hear from people simply running a cooler with a sandwich plate.

How about 2nd hand Jap type, im a little hesitant as due to their age it may be possible that the thermostat or relief valve could be stuffed anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9591-oil-coolers/
Share on other sites

Hi Roy, we run a remote oil filter and oil cooler (mounted behind the RHS duct). No thermostat, no problems. I would not worry about an oil cooler for a street car or a drag car. But any Skyline turbo that sees the circuit a bit should really have one.

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9591-oil-coolers/#findComment-146429
Share on other sites

Hi sidewaymambo, it's even better than that, we have used the same oil cooler and adaptor on RB30, RB20, RB25 and RB26 engines. Basically as long as they use the same oil filter, the adaptor will fit.

Hope that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9591-oil-coolers/#findComment-146476
Share on other sites

If my engine light is coming on when on the track (only since getting new IC) then id hate to know what temp my oils is reaching.

No thermostat, no problems. I would not worry about an oil cooler for a street car or a drag car.

Sydneykid, you finally found your way onto SAU.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9591-oil-coolers/#findComment-146565
Share on other sites

OK, so now where do i put it. I like the idea of putting it in front of the drivers side duct, but with my IC piping i would have to place it way back about 10" from the actual opening. plus i would have to vent the inner guard so i can get airflow thru.

What about between the IC and radiator, it will just fit there, is this going to increase water temps even more as my car is already marginal.

Maybe ill take back the 19 row and get the slightly smaller 16 row.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9591-oil-coolers/#findComment-149054
Share on other sites

Roy

The cooler would be much more efficient in the drivers side vent, even 10" back. This is the same position as ours and ours is ducted with aluminium.

Anything which takes temperature out of the oil will also take some temperature out of the water.

Stick with the 19 row - always stay with the biggest

Hope that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9591-oil-coolers/#findComment-149696
Share on other sites

We don't run an inner plastic guard, but if you want to then cut a hole in the plastic inner guard the same size as the oil cooler and run the ducting from the back of the oil cooler up to the hole. It's like the cooler is sitting inside a rectangular tunnel. Then put some fly screen over the hole in the inner plastic guard - this stops any dirt, rocks, crap that fly off the wheel from hitting the back of the cooler.

This means that any air that comes thru the duct must go thru the coller (can;t go around it) and then out the hole. Since the air pressure is greater at the duct than it is inside the wheel well the air will flow thru the cooler in direct proportion to the forward speed of the car.

Hope that explains it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9591-oil-coolers/#findComment-149703
Share on other sites

SydneyKid - what sort of oil temps would warrant an oil cooler??

Now that I've got a front mount intercooler and a thermo fan (FMIC is stopping a bit of air into the engine bay, and the thermo only comes on when the water temp gets up) the oil temps get up to around 90 degrees or so when cruising around at 80-100km/h.

I intend on wrapping the dump pipe in thermo wrap to get under bonnet temps down a bit, maybe that might help???

Roy - sorry for the quick thread hi-jack :P

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9591-oil-coolers/#findComment-151734
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...