Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have a blown crank seal on my 4WD Skyline (R32 GTS4). I have been told that I will need to remove the pump do replace the seal and that the pump has a large bolt on the bottom of it which stops it from sliding of the crank with-out removing the sump. This sounds like a MASSIVE job. I have been quoted around $1000 to have it done for me. Has anyone done this at home? Was it as bad as it sounds? Any help would be good.

Alternatively, Advan at Silverwater tell me that they simply slide the seal out of the oil pump while it is still on the crank. Does this sound unreasonable? It would certainly save A LOT of hassle if it is possible.

Your thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95992-replancing-crank-seal-oil-pump-seal/
Share on other sites

I have been told that I will need to remove the pump do replace the seal....

That is not correct, assuming your talking about the crank oil seal. Basically it's a case of removing the harmonic balancer + timing belt cog (and a couple of associated large guides/washers) then prising out the seal before putting in the new one. There's no need to remove the oil pump. Of course, taking off the belt cog also means removing the timing belt/covers, etc, so might be a good idea to consider replacing the belt as well depending on the k's it's done, plus also worth considering replacing the water pump. All this depends on what you know about the condition of those parts.

I am talking about the crank oil seal (we are on the same page). How do I prise the seal out (with a knife or something). To put it back in do I simply need to press it in the same way it came out? Sorry, for the additional questions but it is better to ask someone who knows that try to figure it out myself!

I am talking about the crank oil seal (we are on the same page). How do I prise the seal out (with a knife or something). To put it back in do I simply need to press it in the same way it came out? Sorry, for the additional questions but it is better to ask someone who knows that try to figure it out myself!

I have a specially bent screwdriver that does the job (seriously). You'll have to improvise BUT be very careful not to scratch/score the surfaces of the pump where the seal fits or you might end up with another leak. The new one is simply pressed into place, but I usually put a (thin) smear of grease on the outer surface to help it go in. Make sure you lubricate the 'lips' of the new seal (ie where it contacts the crank surface) with oil before it goes in.

This seems a little too easy (I am very excited about this now!) Are there any other details that you can think of to remove some issues that may come up?

There are probably a myriad of things I wouldn't give a second thought to, but might become 'issues' if you've never done this before. The main things I can think of are:

- getting the crank bolt undone (and done up at the end)

- getting the belt cog off the crank (I see there's another thread - personally I regard cold chisels and angle grinders as an absolute last resort......)

- cam timing (make sure you fully understand how this is done BEFORE you even consider pulling things apart - I'd strongly recommend getting all the marks lined up before taking anything off).

- make sure you have all the spare parts you need on hand before doing any work (eg replacement belt cog if you plan on taking a cold chisel to the old one, waterpump, timing belt, seal, etc, etc).

Above all have a good think about how your going to tackle the job, allow plenty of time and have a read of the threads on these forums (ie do a search) of which there are many that have discussed pretty much exactly what your planning. If your not sure, ask, and perhaps even find a member here that is local to you and might be able to offer direct hands-on help/assistance in the event you get into difficulties.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...