Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 114
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

most of them have some method of connecting up - ive got a hp jornada 568 (or something) and all it takes for me is to put a null modem adaptor on the serial sync cable (and this appears as com1)

google it (typically u will find gps sites that tell u how to hook up a gps serial unit to ur pda - however they hook it up is how you would) and u should be able to find out. i think a lot of ipaqs are the same, and it may just be a null modem adaptor on the serial sync cable (which u may have to buy if u dont have one).

as for pricing etc, i dont really know, thats something to work out later. obviously on one side it would take a lot of time to do so, so id hope to get some money from it, but on the other hand i know everyone are tightasses (despite owning skylines....). maybe donation or something may be the way to go, so that those who'd appreciate the time/effort that itd take to do can send along some encouragement :)

Edited by NewKleer

Sounds great, I'll look up about Null modems thanks for that B)

I wouldnt mind paying for the software, its worth it if it works ok and it would be alot better than driving around with a laptop.

I'd love to have the PDA display different gauges on demand

this is the null modem thing i got:

http://www.expansys.com.au/product.asp?code=3011213

essentially just switches over the send/receive data lines (pins 2/3) i think.

what model ipaq do u have?

bluetooth isnt something i know much about, and would at the least require some kind of extra hardware or something. bluetooth would be useful, but low priority atm. if pocketpc's can have an emulated com port over bluetooth (so no need to change the program) then it would just need some serial->bluetooth converter (if one exists) attached to the consult interface

What your wishing for already exists guys....developed by a Skyline owner in Vic.

Im running a HP rz1710 PDA in my car now with brilliant software that has all the Nissan DataScan features such as sensor monitoring, Fault code check(and clear) ecu self learn reset, datalogging,0-60/0-100 ect.ect. plus it has a digital dash screen, it has shift light on the PDA screen and on the power/controller gauge.

Also has aux wiring to bring in 'something'(elect fan, water spray ?) at your chosen RPM.

It also has graphing software.so the logs I record I can view in colour graphs straight away, and when I sync the PDA with my home PC I can send the recorded data to anywhere in an email....great for specialist advice on engine/tuning issues.

But the best bit is that I can make adjustments to my fuel and ign timing and store them in 1 of 3 macros :P I just tap the mac1,2 or 3 on the digital dash and the preset tune activates. Got me an extra 18rw/kw on street boost (11psi) ;)

I can also fine tune those depending on the weather, track conditions or what Im doing ;) .

Its also been a safety net for me twice now.....got stuck having to use 95ron fuel which normally has my car pinging like mad, I retarded the timing which stopped the detonation, till I could get some full strength fuel.

The other time I got stuck in traffic on 35 deg day...my car was getting hot, she doesn't like no air flow, so once again I was able to retard timing a few deg and this time I dumped some more fuel in just until I could stretch her legs and cool her down.

It plugs into the consult port same as my laptop and techtom, I fitted the controller into my pillar pod. The controller supplies the PDA with power so it never runs out of battery.

And now the developer is writing the software to tune the stock ecu in blocks with a PDA :)

PS: I also have a USB Ecu/laptop Interface cable...NO adaptor, no box on the cable.

Caz... :)

Im running what you want :)

See my post a few down>>

Caz...

Sounds great, I'll look up about Null modems thanks for that  B)

I wouldnt mind paying for the software, its worth it if it works ok and it would be alot better than driving around with a laptop.

I'd love to have the PDA display different gauges on demand

what we're "wishing for" isnt something with a $600 price tag :)

if ecuextend wasnt so expensive then i'd have no need to even attempt to write my own - it looks like a great piece of software. but the bottom line is its priced such that its out of reach of casual or less than serious users. little bit of competition never hurt anyone!

Edited by NewKleer

You're right NewKleer, ecuXtend is high end stuff, it isnt for the casual or non serious user, its an ecu control /monitor system for performance heads, thats used everyday and its value to a prospective purchaser depends on what they want to do with their car. For me , its well worth $500 for the power increase, fuel economy, peace of mind and convenience.

Its more than just the software for that $500 too..

I shouldn't say "just the software"...it was 2 years in development and 6mths trialling and fine tuning.

You'd know that better than me about software writing tho NewKleer, you guys that are able to write these programs for our cars need to be supported 100%, we can access our ecu's now..but thats not much use without the software you write to enable us to do what we want.

Its not a 'competition' on this forum, its a sharing of ideas, knowledge and experience.

At the strip?? thats different...then its competition :) .... :)

Cheers Caz... ;)

what we're "wishing for" isnt something with a $600 price tag :P

if ecuextend wasnt so expensive then i'd have no need to even attempt to write my own - it looks like a great piece of software. but the bottom line is its priced such that its out of reach of casual or less than serious users. little bit of competition never hurt anyone!

Hmmm, you're right Kaz...just under different topics . Amazing coincidence :)

Im thinking I've stepped on toes with my reply.... :D

Cheers,

Caz... :)

only its price makes it not for the casual/non serious user - its using the same consult functions that all other consult programs do/can

sure it might be worth $500 in it's usefulness, but i guess thats the distinction between doing something with the focus on making money, vs the focus on helping others out

NewKleer, if you can get a simple display on a PDA where i can choose which gauge to display, and make it skinnable so that i can design my own Gauge screen i would be very happy.

I'll be running a car PC as well in the future, but for now i'd like to see something on my PDA

having a bit of a play around tonight, and have a reasonably primitive gauge happening (this one was for battery voltage)

still a fair way off (been working on pc version first as its easier) but getting there.

Your correct again NewKleer :D , it does nearly all of the Nissan DataScan 1-4 functions, so it does replace my laptop and Interface cable ..but thats just the beginning of what I can do with this system :D Having a touch screen digital dash looks awesome and at night it sits on my dash and I read in in my windscreen, don't have to drop my eyes for a second...touch 'realtime' and I have full monitoring, I can check for fault codes at the traffic lights, hell.. I can tune my car at the traffic lights! and graph the results and email them to ya!.

I can set my shift light RPM and tell it when to bring in the thermo fan or intercooler spray. And when she's sweet I can check my emails. :D:D all without having to juggle a laptop.

So you can see it is a full on system that isn't designed for a casual user, its a digital touchscreen dash, its interactive ecu control and it will be ever evolving as new software updates come through for those of us that want a system like this.

only its price makes it not for the casual/non serious user - its using the same consult functions that all other consult programs do/can

sure it might be worth $500 in it's usefulness, but i guess thats the distinction between doing something with the focus on making money, vs the focus on helping others out

For my car, and what I do with it motorsport wise, its 'usefullness' is well worth $500! What else could give me 18rw/kw more for $500?? and do everything else it can too? all on my HP iPAQ.. you saying that "its usefullness is the destinction between making money and helping people out" doesnt even make sence :P

and its offensive....you obviously have no idea how much of my time and knowledge goes into helping out other performance people just for the love of it.

You have made it clear that you personally dont see the value in in this software program, and thats fine...just as I dont see the value in buying a home made RS232(serial) cable with a box along it for $75 and then having to purchase a serial to USB adaptor, when you can purchase a workshop quality, highly developed,dedicated USB Interface Cable..with no box along it for $99 ?? (current group buy price)... But I have never said so.....before now.

Its horses for coarses NewKleer....

Cheers,

Caz.. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
  • Create New...