Jump to content
SAU Community

Hevy Duty Clutch

teazn_r33
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

teazn_r33 Mentor

teazn_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Are you sure man? I asked someone and they rekon I will have to send it back to microtech and they have to change it to suit a sr20 and that will cost me $380.

dude y would you have to do that as it is programble with a lap top thats bull shiyt

you can leave the laptop in the car all the time and tune it whenever ??

PEAKIN Contributor

PEAKIN

Posted
Posted

Asked my tuner. Your lt8 will only suit skylines.

It's the same as saying a stock sr20 ecu with control an rb20. It won't work.

This ECU will only suit skylines with the same motor as teazn_r33.

teazn_r33 Mentor

teazn_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well my mate just brought one from a fella with a ford and is now using it with a vl turbo with no problems you rmight wanna get you facts straight

can u tell me y it will only suit skylines as i have had 2 professional tuners say other wise

i think you need to see a diffrent tuner if he is saying that

PEAKIN Contributor

PEAKIN

Posted
Posted (edited)
Thank you for your question regarding the Microtech LT8 ECU.

Unfortunately if you are wanting to put an ecu made for an RB engine and put it on an SR you will be required to send the ecu back to Microtech. Our first thoughts were to just try and get Microtech to load a new base map, which is only an $80 cost, but after talking to them for one of our previous clients who had used a microtech on a 4G93 and was changing to EJ20, after talking to microtech we learnt that their ECU's are hardware specifiic units, and when you order an ecu from them it is for that specific engine only. The main reason on why it is not possible is due to different crank angle sensor wiring setups on the various motors.

You can send the unit back to Microtech at a cost where they change parts of the chipset, and alter diodes and resistors so it works on the new engine it will be going in, they also send a new loom with it as well as wires out from the ecu will also differ now.

Many tuners like us get caught out by this if they have not had to do this previously, as I said our first assumption was to just load a new base map until we found out it is a hardware specific ecu.

It is possible to run that ecu on various versions of that similar motor.

For example, the lancer tune ecu we had was able to work on 4G63,4G93,4G92.... etc etc as they all share similar characteristics such as crank angle.

Since you are talking about the RB, I would presume that the ecu will work on RB20,RB25,RB26 and maybe RB30.

That is the problem with hardware altered ecus compared to software altered such as Motec and Autronic, yes the ecu is laptop tunable, but only once the base map has been loaded for that car and the internals changed.

I would give Microtech a call if I was you to confirm this however.

MicroTech Automotive Systems

Unit 2/ 76 Charles St Putney 2112

(02) 9808 5233

Please dont bother to ring Microtech until after 2pm and before 5pm as they have limited phone answering hours, Id expect the cost of converting to different engine to still cost around $380, my feelings are to just sell the ecu to a similar engined car if possible, as a new ecu is only double the cost of converting it.

Thanks.

Email response from my tuner. Rang Microtech and they confirmed what he said. So maybe you should get your facts straight.

Good Luck with the sale.

Edited by PEAKIN
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...