Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Are you sure man? I asked someone and they rekon I will have to send it back to microtech and they have to change it to suit a sr20 and that will cost me $380.

dude y would you have to do that as it is programble with a lap top thats bull shiyt

you can leave the laptop in the car all the time and tune it whenever ??

Asked my tuner. Your lt8 will only suit skylines.

It's the same as saying a stock sr20 ecu with control an rb20. It won't work.

This ECU will only suit skylines with the same motor as teazn_r33.

well my mate just brought one from a fella with a ford and is now using it with a vl turbo with no problems you rmight wanna get you facts straight

can u tell me y it will only suit skylines as i have had 2 professional tuners say other wise

i think you need to see a diffrent tuner if he is saying that

Thank you for your question regarding the Microtech LT8 ECU.

Unfortunately if you are wanting to put an ecu made for an RB engine and put it on an SR you will be required to send the ecu back to Microtech. Our first thoughts were to just try and get Microtech to load a new base map, which is only an $80 cost, but after talking to them for one of our previous clients who had used a microtech on a 4G93 and was changing to EJ20, after talking to microtech we learnt that their ECU's are hardware specifiic units, and when you order an ecu from them it is for that specific engine only. The main reason on why it is not possible is due to different crank angle sensor wiring setups on the various motors.

You can send the unit back to Microtech at a cost where they change parts of the chipset, and alter diodes and resistors so it works on the new engine it will be going in, they also send a new loom with it as well as wires out from the ecu will also differ now.

Many tuners like us get caught out by this if they have not had to do this previously, as I said our first assumption was to just load a new base map until we found out it is a hardware specific ecu.

It is possible to run that ecu on various versions of that similar motor.

For example, the lancer tune ecu we had was able to work on 4G63,4G93,4G92.... etc etc as they all share similar characteristics such as crank angle.

Since you are talking about the RB, I would presume that the ecu will work on RB20,RB25,RB26 and maybe RB30.

That is the problem with hardware altered ecus compared to software altered such as Motec and Autronic, yes the ecu is laptop tunable, but only once the base map has been loaded for that car and the internals changed.

I would give Microtech a call if I was you to confirm this however.

MicroTech Automotive Systems

Unit 2/ 76 Charles St Putney 2112

(02) 9808 5233

Please dont bother to ring Microtech until after 2pm and before 5pm as they have limited phone answering hours, Id expect the cost of converting to different engine to still cost around $380, my feelings are to just sell the ecu to a similar engined car if possible, as a new ecu is only double the cost of converting it.

Thanks.

Email response from my tuner. Rang Microtech and they confirmed what he said. So maybe you should get your facts straight.

Good Luck with the sale.

Edited by PEAKIN
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...