Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A little bit of clarification;

We have played with the ATTESA in several R32GTR's and found big improvements from upgrading/servicing the clutch packs. Just like any other clutch, the plates wear out over time and R32's are now far from new. There are a number of retail outlets than can do ATTESA upgrades, I am sure places like Racepace, Croydons and Advan would be able to help.

We haven't seen much of an issue with the hydraulics, although the pump itself is definitely worth checking and the hoses should be replaced. Don't forget to change the fluid and bleed the system.

We have found that this makes more of a difference than electronics, nothing that we tried in that area would fix a worn out clutch pack. It doesn't matter if you have the fastest ATTESA ECU, if the mechanicals are worn out, it won't help.

My suggestion, attend to the mechanicals first, then, if it still isn't up to your requirements, look to the electronics.

:D cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

good idea!!! great idea actually and makes complete dense to me. only problem is here in the states there is no service for these, so i will haft to source the parts myself and get the service manuals and get my buddy to help me tackle it. is this a job that requires the front diff assembly to be removed from the car or can it be done with it in the car? i am going to do the clutch so i guess i can do it the same time. thanks

good idea!!! great idea actually and makes complete dense to me. only problem is here in the states there is no service for these, so i will haft to source the parts myself and get the service manuals and get my buddy to help me tackle it. is this a job that requires the front diff assembly to be removed from the car or can it be done with it in the car? i am going to do the clutch so i guess i can do it the same time. thanks

Gearbox out is easiest, just disconnect the tailshafts, no need to remove the front diff. I am sure the guys here would supply parts and instructions, although the standard ATTESA service manual would do the trick.

:D cheers :(

Hi Guys, After changing, flushing and bleeding the ATTESA oil in my 32gtr, I fitted a torque split controller, which I had a local electronics wiz kid make for me. Works really well, the car feels very tidy coming out of corners. The unit is fully adjustable 0 to 10 , 0 being standard 10 being max ( I have enough parts to make 4 more )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...