Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have have a fairly stock rb20det, basically all it has is a walbro fuel pump, 450x300x78 fmic, stock turbo, pod, boost tap, 3.5 exhaust with stock cat(yeh i know lol im too lazy to get the f**r off* otherwise id have a new one on by now, service it every 5000km and it runs like a dream, no probs cept vacuum pipes splitting on me all the time, running turbo on 14psi never pings, runs smooth as a mother! had a few probs when my spark plugs got to old was misfiring a bit, but now ive accidently ran stock turbo on 20psi! and i didnt notice for like 3 days cause my brother mainly drives it, put it back down to 14 psi still fine! runs like a dream

any way! so had everything checked out and the engine is top notch, so im just wandering what should i do next, i have a high flowed r32 turbo sitting in my wardrobe i was thinking about installing it, i was just wandering.. i know the stock turbo's are watercooled correct? should i put in a oil catch can and oil cooler?

also was thinking about bigger valve springs and cams, and no i dont have an ecu

also any othe rsuggestions on what i should do on my tight arse budget! ive managed not to spend over 1000 so far, got her completely stock :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97880-rb20-help-turbo/
Share on other sites

Stage one cam 256 deg 8.5 mm lift (tomei) would help no mater the turbo but you wouldn't need to change the valve springs for this cam.

If you wanted to intall the high flowed rb20 turbo the cam would be only benificial but not a necessity.

In the end you will still need a remap/tune. Regardless of the turbo you go with.

A stock r32 ecu is fairly easy to remap for someone in the know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97880-rb20-help-turbo/#findComment-1779521
Share on other sites

OK where did you hear that?

A remap is permanant.

I'm running a much larger turbo,FMIC, 550cc RX7 injectors and a Z32 afm all on a stock ecu I remapped well over 12 months ago.

An ecu will self learn to a point but it has a base map to start from which is what people change in a remap.

Self learn is mainly ignition timing in a selected part of the map and some minor fueling in the closed loop area of the map. Other than that it will run what is is programmed/remapped to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97880-rb20-help-turbo/#findComment-1779535
Share on other sites

Oil catch can is a good idea. Though a healthy RB20DET breaths sfa. :)

I only have one because my olod motor was so stuffed. I could fill it up in one night. :P

As for an oil cooler I dunno. Never had one and never seen any used. Probly only nesaccerrywhen racing I guess.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97880-rb20-help-turbo/#findComment-1780959
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...