Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Being a Delica owner I love the imports and am wanting to get a Stagea as our 2nd car.

I looked at a white 98 RS4 last week at Cannington Auto and was wondering if anyone has seen this vehicle

It has 98,000kms on it, Excellent condition IMO and drove perfect. I cannot fault it and was curious as to wether the price is on the mark for this model. they want 22,900 for it, I am thinking 20 - 21k. Does these seem reasonable for the year, kms travelled?

It is standard and only extras I found are a TV setup which I am aware wont work!!

any advice would be appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97995-stagea-advice-pleaseperth/
Share on other sites

Being a Delica owner I love the imports and am wanting to get a Stagea as our 2nd car.

I looked at a white 98 RS4 last week at Cannington Auto and was wondering if anyone has seen this vehicle

It has 98,000kms on it, Excellent condition IMO and drove perfect. I cannot fault it and was curious as to wether the price is on the mark for this model. they want 22,900 for it, I am thinking 20 - 21k. Does these seem reasonable for the year, kms travelled?

It is standard and only extras I found are a TV setup which I am aware wont work!!

any advice would be appreciated

I imported a 1997 S1 18 months ago, it cost $16K all up with rego, 3rd party insurance etc. It had slightly less K's and was absolutely stock standard with service books and owners manuals. Around $19K to $20K would be my guess for a S2, depending on options. It will need the usual Nissan 100K service very soon and that's a ~$1K job, so make sure you get that done before you buy it.

:blink: cheers :)

took delivery of mine 2 months ago. 97, 49,000ks, pristine condition - i was a panel beater so i could see where some minor repairs were done, but aside from that - like a new car, inside outside, and engine.

cost me 16,500 registered and driving.

I admit it does look good however price tag is a lot better too

White is advertised at 23K black advertised at 27K. same Kms travelled same year

I can see black one has single bigger exhaust however not sure if its worth the extra dollars !!

I will have a look but I am wanting a manual now, I know they are rare but I will bide my time!!

I admit it does look good however price tag is a lot better too

White is advertised at 23K black advertised at 27K. same Kms travelled same year

I can see black one has single bigger exhaust however not sure if its worth the extra dollars !!

I will have a look but I am wanting a manual now, I know they are rare but I will bide my time!!

that white series 2 i seen today for 21K at the autowholesale yard (plus they drop prices heaps with some bargaining :) )

black one is still there and its only downfall is no sunroofs, but 26k i think it was aint bad. (i reckon u could get it for 24K)

it was factory recaro seats, lowered, rims, black, i'd buy it haha

that white series 2 i seen today for 21K at the autowholesale yard (plus they drop prices heaps with some bargaining :D )

black one is still there and its only downfall is no sunroofs, but 26k i think it was aint bad. (i reckon u could get it for 24K)

it was factory recaro seats, lowered, rims, black, i'd buy it haha

I still think if 21K is too much for the white one then 24 is too much for the black....?

i am currently looking at the black one as well at auto wholesaler..i seem to think that yes well over priced but with some bargaining can get the price down..it at least it has some extras....you think the black one is over priced did you look at the yellow and the red one??? being a girl and all not knowing too much....do you guys agree no more than 23 for the blackie??? :)

i am currently looking at the black one as well at auto wholesaler..i seem to think that yes well over priced but with some bargaining can get the price down..it at least it has some extras....you think the black one is over priced did you look at the yellow and the red one??? being a girl and all not knowing too much....do you guys agree no more than 23 for the blackie??? :)

i reckon when they are asking 29-30K for a 1990 gtr (more than likely stuffed and ready for rebuild) then 23-24K for a 99-00 model stagea with neo rb25/auto is not too bad.

i garantee if the black one was for sale and a white one in the paper, 99.9% of people would go for the black one for the simple reason it looks mad :(

resale will be easy as, because people are chasing the rare colours.

silver is just getting done to death on skylines and stageas :lol:

Edited by StageZilla
i don't think car colour should play a part in the price of the car. and in my opinion black is a worse colour to have in aus, what with the sun being hot and all.

my r33 was black.. and i swear its no different from my red stagea........ leave out under the sun for a day.. and its much of the sameness.... HOT

the 18deg on the climate control is my biggest problem.. its not cold enough!!

black is horn thats for sure!

difference between black and white is that black is boiling hot 5 min before white is. and you notice every single little bump and dent and ripple when it is waxed.

ring him up. tell him he's dreamin.

the white one is very well priced, and the balck one is niiiice and more reasonably priced for a series 2. I think the guys talking about their 19k pricepoints arent talking series 2 matey - so dont confuse the poor guy fellas (unless im wrong and they arent series 1s).

But I'll give you my yellow Series 2 for around the dollars of the white one - and u get it already with a $750 alarm, 18" wheels and only 63,000kms with log books - and no salesman margins.

Call me for a drive - 0417 097 178 - more than happy to negotiate on price til you're happy.

16143TonkaFrontLeft.jpg

Adam

Hi Brazen...yeah my hubby (MrGTST) had a drive of your car a little while back..apparently very flash :D ..might be interested in coming to have another look...I was very keen on the blackie at Cannington Auto, like yellow too, but yours looks just as good so far!!... still got to sell the skyline too! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...