Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmmm.

well i just had my emanage fitted. and the tuner said that the airflow meter is maxed out at 180rwkw at 12psi??

i know my brother using the exactly the same afm on his r33 was pulling around that 200-220rwkw mark with pfc.

the tuner said that i will need z32 afm as mine is maxing out at the moment at 5volts?? he is saying that the ecu is not liking any more than that?

its got me F**ked i wonder why. I need some expert answers ;P??????????????????????????????????

could the greddy emanage be running a different current to the afm than the pfc?

Why not consider the extra map sensor plugin harness for the emanage.

It will read boost pressure off the map sensor once the afm maxes out.

Just a thought.

yeah i was looking at that on mohd parts. thankyou most helpful. i wasnt 100% sure what it did.

Why not consider the extra map sensor plugin harness for the emanage.

It will read boost pressure off the map sensor once the afm maxes out.

Just a thought.

How does that help?

The boost controller should be ensuring that the boost stays constant, especially at the sort of rpm the AFM is going to be maxing out at. So the MAP sensor shouldn't see any differences in the pressure. That means there is no variation in the load signal to cause the load mapping reference to move. So all you get is RPM mapping reference changes, which is what you would get with a maxed out AFM anyway.

The only time you really need an AFM upgrade is when unanticipateable changes in airflow occur, ie; not linear with rpm changes. At high rpm (ie; past boost build and camshaft timing effects) this shouldn't be an issue. The fuel and ignition requirements are satisfactorily driven off the rpm change.

That's why I don't change the AFM's until it is necessary because of tuning requirements, and reaching 5.1 volts at 6,000 rpm in an RB25DET is not one of those. It would seem that RacePace have a similar philosophy.

:D cheers :(

How does that help?

The boost controller should be ensuring that the boost stays constant, especially at the sort of rpm the AFM is going to be maxing out at.  So the MAP sensor shouldn't see any differences in the pressure.  That means there is no variation in the load signal to cause the load mapping reference to move.  So all you get is RPM mapping reference changes, which is what you would get with a maxed out AFM anyway.

:huh: cheers :)

Yeah your right.

But with regards to the original question, i was under the impression he wanted to run more boost then what he had, which would require someway of the ecu knowing that the extra boost is being run.

Yeah your right.

But with regards to the original question, i was under the impression he wanted to run more boost then what he had, which would require someway of the ecu knowing that the extra boost is being run.

It's not the amount of boost, but the change in boost that the ECU would need to make use of for mapping purposes. MAP sensors are usefull when boost is building or decaying. But when the pressure stays the same for periods of RPM change they are not much use at all. You still have to use the RPM axis to determin the fuel mapping.

:huh: cheers :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...