Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no search?  :D

take em off one by one.

If the idle changes, thats not broken one.

Idle wont change when the stuffed coil is disconnected

Thanks Ash, its a common problem for R34gtt's. It comes and go so its kind of hard to trace which one. They cost $156+gst each from Nissan so we dont' want to change all sixes :D.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99039-ignition-coil/#findComment-1804252
Share on other sites

If you have a decent multimeter, you can easily check/compare the primary and secondary coil resistance. Compare all 6 coils as it is most unlikely that all of them are stuffed. Check the resistance between the input terminals, should be very low around 1 ohm'ish. Then check the resistence between the output terminal (where it fits onto the spark plug) and one of the input terminals, should be very high 10,000 ohms or so.

:D cheers :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99039-ignition-coil/#findComment-1804406
Share on other sites

the coils in r34 suck ass. when you replace that one, in a couple of months another will go and it keeps happening. i got sick of it and had to get splitfires. i know its probably $520 you want ot spend right now, but i will save anguish in the future. its not a hard job testing and changing the coils, but tedious and the 2nd or 3rd time you do it it drives you nuts well it drove me nuts anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99039-ignition-coil/#findComment-1805947
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...
Isnt that a bad thing to do I read up that the spark is known to kill?

Yes, make sure all your leads are in good condition, and make sure you not touching earth (the cars body).

I've been stung twice, once from an old carby motor (which would have been between 5,000 V and 20,000 V) and once from electronic ignition.. (generally 40,000 V to 60,000 V)..

It hurts alot, and can toss you into the air...

I ended up across the carport, and with chronic shaking from my right hand to my left for a couple of hours..

In that circumstance, a lead had fallen off, so, with the car still running, I lent on the radiator support and grab the lead, then saw a fat blue spark come out from under the insulated plug, and sting me on my hand..

I still live... Although it is certainly enough current to kill someone, because it sparks with each revolution of the motor, it isn't a constent current.

Therefore, rather than locking your muscles so you can't move; you get 1 violent zap and thrown free.

Lucky for me.... It hadn't even crossed my mind at the time. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99039-ignition-coil/#findComment-2522570
Share on other sites

If you have a decent multimeter, you can easily check/compare the primary and secondary coil resistance. Compare all 6 coils as it is most unlikely that all of them are stuffed. Check the resistance between the input terminals, should be very low around 1 ohm'ish. Then check the resistence between the output terminal (where it fits onto the spark plug) and one of the input terminals, should be very high 10,000 ohms or so.

:) cheers :)

0.6-0.9 is the proper Ohm resistance between positive and negative leads

HOWEVER you cannot test your primary (at least i couldnt) which is generally where the problem happens.

as well heat is generally a thing to keep in mind when testing coilpacks.

so no bench testing doesnt work that great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99039-ignition-coil/#findComment-2523507
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...