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no search?  :D

take em off one by one.

If the idle changes, thats not broken one.

Idle wont change when the stuffed coil is disconnected

Thanks Ash, its a common problem for R34gtt's. It comes and go so its kind of hard to trace which one. They cost $156+gst each from Nissan so we dont' want to change all sixes :D.

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If you have a decent multimeter, you can easily check/compare the primary and secondary coil resistance. Compare all 6 coils as it is most unlikely that all of them are stuffed. Check the resistance between the input terminals, should be very low around 1 ohm'ish. Then check the resistence between the output terminal (where it fits onto the spark plug) and one of the input terminals, should be very high 10,000 ohms or so.

:D cheers :D

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the coils in r34 suck ass. when you replace that one, in a couple of months another will go and it keeps happening. i got sick of it and had to get splitfires. i know its probably $520 you want ot spend right now, but i will save anguish in the future. its not a hard job testing and changing the coils, but tedious and the 2nd or 3rd time you do it it drives you nuts well it drove me nuts anyway.

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  • 9 months later...
Isnt that a bad thing to do I read up that the spark is known to kill?

Yes, make sure all your leads are in good condition, and make sure you not touching earth (the cars body).

I've been stung twice, once from an old carby motor (which would have been between 5,000 V and 20,000 V) and once from electronic ignition.. (generally 40,000 V to 60,000 V)..

It hurts alot, and can toss you into the air...

I ended up across the carport, and with chronic shaking from my right hand to my left for a couple of hours..

In that circumstance, a lead had fallen off, so, with the car still running, I lent on the radiator support and grab the lead, then saw a fat blue spark come out from under the insulated plug, and sting me on my hand..

I still live... Although it is certainly enough current to kill someone, because it sparks with each revolution of the motor, it isn't a constent current.

Therefore, rather than locking your muscles so you can't move; you get 1 violent zap and thrown free.

Lucky for me.... It hadn't even crossed my mind at the time. :)

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If you have a decent multimeter, you can easily check/compare the primary and secondary coil resistance. Compare all 6 coils as it is most unlikely that all of them are stuffed. Check the resistance between the input terminals, should be very low around 1 ohm'ish. Then check the resistence between the output terminal (where it fits onto the spark plug) and one of the input terminals, should be very high 10,000 ohms or so.

:) cheers :)

0.6-0.9 is the proper Ohm resistance between positive and negative leads

HOWEVER you cannot test your primary (at least i couldnt) which is generally where the problem happens.

as well heat is generally a thing to keep in mind when testing coilpacks.

so no bench testing doesnt work that great.

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