Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, here goes:

This morning driving on my way to work I decided to do a bit of a town cruise (was running early for once) anyways the car was running fine, pulled into a parking spot where I work, and what'd ya know the car stalls. I presumed it was just the bov leaking air causing it to intermittently stall, so I tried clutch starting it and no go. Cranked it over a few times, no go. All the lights on the dash are fine, nothing abnormal.

I was leaning towards something that triggers the fuel pump. I have checked the injectors for pulse (using one of those thingers with the light) and I have check for spark (bodgy way but we wont go there)

Now i know its got injector pulse and spark, I was looking at all the fuses that had anything to do with the ECU/fuel pump setup, nothing blown at all - damn. I then went on to test the power to the pump, now it seems that the pump isnt getting power (there were 5 wires, 2 sender ones and 3 pump ones i think) checked them all while cranking/ign and no power.

Can anyone point me in the right direction? Should I just try and externally hook up 12V to the pump to make sure the pump isnt f**ked? Or is there a relay I didnt look at/test while I was at it.

If anyone can shed some light on this please help as my car is sitting in my workshop.. well my boss's workshop haha :D

Thanks in advance

P.S. If anyone has the wiring diagrams for the pump etc please post or email. :)

edit:shpelling

Edited by Mumbo#5
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99226-please-help-no-start/
Share on other sites

It's been awhile since I looked at one of these but I believe there's a fuel pump relay near the ECU - behind the passenger side kick panel. The relay is green from memory. Actually there might even be 2 relays that look the same, but only one is for the pump. Anyway, worth a check. Also if you have access to a multimeter you could check for +12V on any wires associated with the pump or the relay (ign on, of course).

What car do you have, R32 or R33? The fuel pump relay is located in the passenger footwell on the R32's (behind the ECU) but in the boot (near the battery) in the R33's.

Can you hear the pump prime when you first turn the key to the ON position? The fuel pump will prime for a couple of seconds and then stop.

Are you sure an intercooler hose or similar hasn't come loose? A major air leak will prevent the car from starting.

If the piping is ok check the power to the pump when the key is first switched to the ON position (only lasts a couple of seconds). If no power is present then check the relay. PIN18 on the ECU (R32 & R33) earths the relay coil. You will need to check the main power feed to the relay and the voltage at PIN18 when you first switch the key to the ON position. If the ECU has earthed the relay (switched the pump on) you should see 0V otherwise there should probably be battery voltage (I have to check).

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Edited by BH_SLO32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
    • I _think_ that one has a christmas tree or some other retainer spike into a hole in that panel under it. Come in under it with thin scredrivers and just pry it gently up. If you rip the ears off the retainer pin....so what? Just stick it back down after with a bit of race tape and carry on with life.
×
×
  • Create New...