Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day peoples,

I just put on my R34 turbo onto the Rb20. What a bloody job, would have been easiy if it werent for one bloody bolt, the hardest one to get to.

I took it for a test run and its only running at 5psi. I beleive this would be normal as the Rb20 is obviously smaller,

I'm thinking I will knock the boost to about 11psi with a bleed setup, what doo yoouuss reckon.:P

Doc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/993-need-a-little-help-please/
Share on other sites

11psi should be no worries without having to worry about fuel etc.

TO be safe though and make sure it isn't leaning out due to an old fuel pump either replace the fuel pump or get it setup on a dyno for 11psi.

Also let us know how you go with boost drop if any in the higher revs, as the std turbo drops boost in the higher revs.

So whats the drive like does it feel better than the std r32 turbo?

Full boost by 2500rpm or 3000rpm?!?!?!?

G'day Joel,

Well its only making 5 psi at the mo. The car makes boost at about 2grand. Its driving pretty well considereing such low boost. I don't feel anymore lag atall.

My car is missing at idle like a little bitch now. I don't know what it is. Could the oxygen sensor be stuffed?

What else could it be.

Doc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...