Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HELP! :):(

Got my car booked in next week for window tinting B) , through a group buy on this forum! But need help, I still can't decide which % tint to go with! Was thinking 15% but don't want to get defected and not sure about night visibility, on the other hand 35% may not be dark enough to keep the heat out and people from looking into the car!

Any suggestions and/or pics of recently tinted cars!? Are there any Series 2 R33 GTS-25T recently tinted out there?

Any help will be greatly appreciated!!

:D:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99335-window-tinting-15-or-35/
Share on other sites

i have 15% on a R32 GTR, suits the car perfectly, visibility is good, and cant see in at night

I wasnt sure which one to go either, but greg showed me the 15% on a ceffie and im really happy with it

Thanks heaps guys!

I will probably go for the 15% and stay away from the cops! I will be seeing Greg next week and he will show me some samples but to be honest I was pretty keen on the darker tint. In the end it just seems to be better overall!

Once again, Thank you.

my sII came with tinted windows at the back ...i cant see shit out the back at night...day time is pretty bad too so i have to reverse using side mirrors only ..

Would you know what % the windows were tinted at? Chances are they would be pretty close to 15%, or maybe darker?

So since 15% is a defect, perhaps consider what ure insurance company will say if you have a smash. "your tints are past the legal limit, we think you could not see, bye bye payout"

You make a good point, the last thing that I need is 1) to have an accident and 2) to have problems with my insurer!

no its pretty hard... I usually have to turn down the windows... To get a better view....  :P

I don't really want to have this problem but it will prevent theives from looking into the car and the possibility of being broken into. Would 35% be able to do that? Obviously not as effectively, but within reason.

Thank you all for your input!

35% would help at night. but its not going to stop them from seeing thru.

I have a few mates with 5%. you cant see anything with the windows up at night. not sure about 15% though. im sure it wouldnt be much different.

yep 5% you cant see shit at night but i drive around with the windows down all the time anyways...

i love it... wouldnt have any less.. only have trouble when there arent street lights and if the street is really dark i cant see where im going.. but its all good

hey sup man.. once u get your tints done, please post up some pics.. would love to see how the car looks with dark tints.. so im thinkin of doin the same thing.. n i got same colour car as u so yea..

thanks man..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...