R33gtr Apexi T/max Rear Shocks
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Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map". -
What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought. -
For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway -
Yeah, Duncan is helping sell me back to Android devices. I've hated the whole Android head units due to their speed issues. Even in my old Hyundai Kona (2022 model), it behind the scenes was Android, and slow and shitty to start up. Once running wasn't bad, but still a good 15 to 30 seconds. -
My roof rails are off atm on the E39 until the rust is fixed. I did find another little bit of surface rust under the rails when I took them off. As @soviet_merlin said I'd just leave them alone unless you're planning on ensuring they're properly sealed. I was on the fence about leaving them off as the delete is still a thing in BMW E39's but I feel like the car is missing something (er, it is, der) with them off and I'm looking forward to putting them back on.
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