Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I can see how the novelty of being able to dial up boost would ware off very quickly. This would also save me $$ to spend on other things.

Say i buy the PFC without the boost solenoid then tune it to a "safe" PSI. What would be a "safe" level for my car as i have done no engine work. only FMIC, ZORST, POD FILTER. I've found 12PSI to be the most common answer but then occasionaly 14-15. Does anyone else with similar mods run the higher boost???

Ive got the PFC boost controller with 3 boost settings. On hot days i change to a softer boost setting. On cool days or when im out cruising with the boys, i select high which is 20psi. Ive got a an aggressive tune so with high boost i do see some knock (60+). On a hot day i would certainly hate to select high boost.

As far as in gear boosts variations, this would be a handy feature to some high powered cars. With my old 255/40/17 Sumo's this would have been nice in the first 2 gears. But i bought some Street R compound tyres and now i get full traction in any gear.

My 2 cents worth.

if you (or anyone) was able to get their airtemp sensor working you can use the air temp vs boost correction table in the powerfc, you can see these settings via datalogit. in fact theres a few tables for boost correction that you can't see on the hand controller which datalogit shows you. such a shame we cant get the airtemp working

please tell me who has it working on rb25det powerfc

I was referring to the rb20det pfc, as it uses the r32/r33 GTR power fc (just remapped by AP engineering) That is why it displays the air temp on the rb20 hc still.

I dont know if the rb25det displayes air temp on the hc, as i dont have a rb25 pfc.

Obviously the rb25 uses its own pfc version, not a remappped gtr item, so it wont have this option available.....

hey sorry, i knew rb20 has sensor display and works if you plug it onto the ecu. the rb25 ecu has this menu item as well, and all the tables and it just displays airtemp as ---. i tried to hook it up and fried my ecu doing it so thats why i was keen to hear from someone who has done it on rb25.

Ive got the PFC boost controller with 3 boost settings.  On hot days i change to a softer boost setting.  On cool days or when im out cruising with the boys, i select high which is 20psi.  Ive got a an aggressive tune so with high boost i do see some knock (60+).  On a hot day i would certainly hate to select high boost.

As far as in gear boosts variations, this would be a handy feature to some high powered cars.  With my old 255/40/17 Sumo's this would have been nice in the first 2 gears.  But i bought some Street R compound tyres and now i get full traction in any gear. 

My 2 cents worth.

Should i assume that uve done engine work to be running 20PSI?? that sounds like pain for stock internals. I would only look to have 2 boost settings if i set this up. id prob want 9PSI as low boost and 12PSI for high. i'd be too worried about doing damage if i went higher than 12.

Edited by GTS4dood

i believe this thread should be kept open for general apexi powerfc chit chat as there seems to be enough to warrant its own thread.

ive just noticed that nengun has listed the mainstream powerfc pro as discontinued and only ap engineering customers have acccess to pro options

> Please note: Recently Apexi have stopped producing a number of Pro Spec > PFC`s and H/Cs. Please do not purchase a Discontinued Product.

standard rb25det powerfc pro is no longer available, like the others

Anyone know how to brighten the lights up on it?  In the day light its very hard to read.

dont leave it in the sun, the screen will fade and just get worse, put it somwhere where a shadow casts on the screen

OK, there seems to be a fair few ppl out there that have the Power FC installed. Ive read a FAQ on here that the avg price for tuning is 300-500. im gettin quoted from 450-700. I live in newcastle. so im willing to go to sydney for example to get it tuned if someone can recommend a quality tuner at a good price. a 4wd dyno would be good too. but i can switch it to RWD. would there be much of a difference in the overall tuning???

most tuners are telling me to get a seperate boost controller i.e. AVC-R. im almost being warned off the boost controller kits that apexi make as an add-on for the power fc. why would this be as ive had ppl on this thread say that they are fine?

the apexi powerfc boost contorller kit is fine and works fine.

ive heard mixed reports about the avc-r. the avc-r is very expensive. the powerfc kit is half the cost and gives the same functionality.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...