Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Back again...

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction re:coild pack discussions (Know a lot more now!)

I was wondering if there is a coil pack that is compatible with a R34? If yes or no, is a second hand option worth it, is there a way to test this part for cracks?

Have only been able to find a spitfire coil pack = $895.00+del.

The other option I face is a $5 Epoxy Solution...not sure if it worth the effort if it props up again.

thanks again guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99991-coil-pack-compatibility-r34/
Share on other sites

www.nengun.com sell brand new Splitfire Ignition coils for $583 delivered.

The model number is: SF-DIS-008

The glue will work for a week or 2, it's easier just to cough up the money and be done with it. Been there, done that!

i agree go splitfires. much less hastles i tried getting 2nd handys etc. it was too bloddy hard. changin them all the time. i just got my splitfires delivered today. i got them from perfectrun.com.au for 550 delivered. he got them to me in a 5 days.

Legends, both of you!

I want to make sure that my issues is related to the Ignition coils...what issues did you guys have?

At low revs the engine 'pules' and almost splutters (Mainly at a stop)

Also, could I install these myself? Any hints will help, just don't want to replace them and turns out they are fine (All signs point to yes I think)

Cheers again!

An easy way to find if the coils are your problem is to replace them with some out of a mates car (make sure same model car and engine).

A harder way is to individually take 1 coil out, wrap it in electrical tape, put it back in and take the car for a drive. Keep doing it until the car is driving perfect again and then you'll know exactly which coil(s) are faulty.

If you know how to change your sparkplugs you know how to change the coils. All you have to do is take the center cover off, disconnect the wiring loom from each coil, remove the 2 bolts holding each coil in and swap it with the new coil.

It's about a 20-30min job in total to do everything.

mine sort of spluttered at standstill and misfired from 4-6k rpm everynow and then. I tried everything as i couldnt undertstand why it wasnt happeing all the time i thought if it was the coils it would happen all the time. i tried cleaning the afm re gappping plugs all the way down to 0.5 they were all temporary fixes. my coils finally melted. i melted 4 at the same. so all along it was my coils.

Splitfires are the way to go no more splutering missing etc.

they are very easy to change yourself. just take off the neo cover and the coil cover and remove bolts holding the coils in and swap em.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...