Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 With R33 Steering Rack, A Little Bit Stiff Steering


Recommended Posts

I have looked around and tried finding anything on google but can not find anything,

The specs of the car are, R32 rb25det engine/gearbox with majority r33 parts complete rear end non hicus, front lower control arms, rack and power steering pump and lines from a r33.

I have a r32 that has r33 steering rack and the is no hicus component in the car at all. What i would like to know if something can be done, the steering is a bit stiff in the car, the power steering is working the steering wheel will return slowly back but not enough, the steering is constantly like this during start up and all, its not after some time from driving.

I have looked online with many different posts about power steering issues and hicus stuff, but i do not have any of that in the car and its starting to seem like i wont get a possible answer if i don't post about the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The solution to your problem is to put some voltage onto the rack solenoid. The R32 HICAS computer outputs a PWM signal to that solenoid that varies the assistance. Your HICAS CU is either absent, or present and all emo with the world, is not doing what it is supposed to and you are getting fixed (low) assistance.

There is another thread right close to this one, by HarrisRacing, which contains very pertinent information on this topic that would have come up in a search.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think i found the thread you are on about,

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463979-r32-gtr-power-steering-solenoid/

that HarrisRacing is on about, i will have to check it out and see, a bit hard to understand to look at when i haven't dealt with this before.

Ohh also curious i did find this but not too sure, like i stated before i have r33 steering rack,

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453968-r32-heavy-power-steering-how-to-disable-speed-variable-assist-steering-and-control-power-assistance-level/

Edited by kresot9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That second thread is exactly how you would do it the low tech way. If you put 12V on the solenoid and measure the current through it, and you are electro-capable, you could build yourself your own fixed or variable voltage controller for it for a few dollars.

The HarrisRacing thread shows what you would do if you had a suitably capable ECU. Build a table for assistance voltage vs vehicle speed.

An alternative would be to tap the speed signal from the speedo to the ECU, put it into an Arduino or similar project computer and use that to implement the HarrisRacing approach, independent of what ECU you have. A little more stuffing about, but just as doable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ughh, its starting get away from my grasp of being capable to do it, with the second thread i mentioned i should be able to do it but going further to do what HarrisRacing is stating and possibly using an Arudino board will be a bit hard for me, will need help by someone

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I could show you guys photos of wrap having been removed properly, and where the wrap was removed, paint underneath is perfect. Sections of the vehicle didn't have wrap on it, and in those areas, the paint work is destroyed because of how long it had been sitting in the hot QLD sun for many many many years. Wrap even still looked decent. Good quality wrap, and removing it properly shouldn't rip off the paint work, unless the paintwork was already shot to pieces before hand.
    • Any write ups on replacing the window motor?  I've never messed with them (or window regulators) before.   Ever since I've had the car, the driver window would roll down just fine, but most often I'd have the try a few times to get it to go up.  As soon as it started to go up, it always goes up smoothly and quietly.  Seemed like a bad switch.  But now, its stuck in the fully down position and won't come back up.  I get =12/-12V coming out of the relay/amp when pressing the switch up/down.  So the switch and amp are working.  Just a bad motor.  I've also applied 12V directly to the motor and nada.   Any help on replacing the motor?  Can the glass and regulator stay in, and only replace the motor?  Or not possible?  Thanks!!!
    • You are wrong. That's just Whiteline going along with the incorrect slanguage of the sheeple userbase. They are only correctly known as anti-roll bars. They are only incorrectly known as swaybars. They do do anything to prevent "sway". The swaybars that are fitted to trailler hitches do prevent sway. In the trailer. And they do not look like anti-roll bars. So, take your incorrect infopinion away.
    • https://whiteline.com.au/front-and-rear-sway-bar-vehicle-kit-to-suit-nissan-skyline-r32-awd-9986-bnk009.html whiteline calls them a sway bar, the topic of this post.
×
×
  • Create New...