Rekin

as hot weather has come around in victoria, this requires a bump up to the top took my car to get an AC checkup and they told me to wire in the radiator fan startup. One question, after turning off the AC is the rad fan still on? or does the wire+diode signal the rad fan to turn off?

my r32 seems to be sitting at 83degree fine, which is normal for r32 gtst. However once i turn on the AC it starts climbing 90+ haha

Wouldnt mind doing events co-ords with Kristal for the south-east area

Hummer H3 Police car pulled over a red Ferrari in the city haha

was driving next to a ferrari testarossa down wellington road. It sounded so nice. He was even rev matching on downshifts so it isnt owned by some clueless rich kent I want one.......

my sheet shows that due to the exhaust and fmic, the boost is larger than the factory 10psi. You can see that the whole run (the blue line) stays above 10psi right till the end. So regardless if its not holding a solid 13psi, its still pushing more than 10psi throughout the whole run.

http://www.stylyn.com/

the design of the projector headlights in the r32's (the bug eye headlights) do not work too well with HID's. They leave hotspots and dont form an even cut off line. (Sau search hid's on r32, several threads about the problem) Jake, im guessing you will be buying an original gtr lip and getting it to fit? Interested to see how it goes, but i can see the whole procedure costing alot. Doesnt the lip it self cost like $150? Anyways here's a picture of how it should look like once its done

stock boost in a rb20 is 10psi due to the 10psi actuator on the standard turbo. Hence why r33 owners put rb20 actuators on their rb25 turbo's to get 10psi

How is it any different from r33's doing 180kw on nothing more on exhaust and fmic? After all, thats what they produce flywheel too Please do some reading up in both rb20/rb25 turbo upgrade threads to get a better idea

ive had dyno print out's done after every modification and at one case a before/after dyno run on the same day after installing an intercooler. Both dyno runs were done on the same day, seperated by a couple of hours. Full exhaust, stock ecu, standard actuator etc As you can see it jumps up to 13psi where it drops down afterwards

I hope you're not an accountant because you would be $30,000 over budget according to your maths There's still the matter of purchasing the car and with SS's ranging in the $40,000 obviously it will perform better with $5k mods than a $8k r32 w/ $5k mods... Now if i spent an extra $30k on my r32....

160kw atw is normal for full fmic and exhaust. With the larger exhaust and fmic, boost tends to reach about 13psi. My car and plenty of others had around the 150-160kw mark with the same mods.

the rb20 injectors max out at 200kw (like mine are currently). For any power above that, GTR injectors are a must and its evident with his 220kw so far. Depending on where you live, get a turbotech bleed valve and a remap from CEF11E. You could also get adjustable cams to improve the curve, not so much power gain but could result in a better low-midrange.

it was hitting 13psi on the standard rb20 turbo and did not worry about it. As larger exhaust and intercooler would increase it from 10psi Once the hks2530 went on its hitting 15psi and some cases 16psi on a standard rb20 actuator (with no boost control devices). Just wanted to clarify if its normal for the standard 10psi actuator to allow up to 16psi..

reading the service manual, the diagram says the ignition timing is affected by; - crank angle sensor - engine temperature sensor - knock sensors Seeing as the problem goes away after the car warms up but comes back when turned on when hot, it could be my engine temp sensor playing up?

you're one to talk, you go through cars quicker than tyres

They very good quality dumps, SAU has had several groupbuy threads and they cost around $400 mark http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ba...l&hl=batmbl Does anyone have a split front/dump pipe with an aftermarket turbo? Any problems with spiking with standard actuator. It must be either the dump or the actuator causing it because it would spike to 13psi on my factory turbo.. Cheers for help

yeah im using a blitz rvit to read all my ecu sensors through the consult port. My previous o2 sensor stayed below 1V, this one reaches a max of 2.55v I'll check the AFR reading next time im in the car. Are there any other ecu readings i should look into to diagnose my problem?

haha nice drawing. The HKS2530 was purchased 2nd hand without a hks actuator. The turbo was since then rebuilt and my old rb20 actuator used. I am using a stainless steel Bos-Importing split front/dump pipe (batmbl) Thanks

Hey, I have this problem in my car where the ignition timing tends to retard it self when driving. You can feel it pulling back and then jumps back to normal. When i start the car in the morning and go for a drive (engine temp below 50degree's) the ignition timing sits on 7 degree's when im applying constant throttle. After releasing/pressing accelerator it fluctures but once constant rev's it jumps back to 7degrees. It stays like this until it changes out of cold startup mode (whereby the rev's drop and the car feels fine; usually when it hits 60degree's) During this whole time my O2 sensor voltage stays at the maximum 2.55v out of 2.55v when constant acceleration. Once i press/let go of accell the o2 sensor voltage fluctuates. It doesnt seem to fluctuate when cruising which ive heard o2 sensors are supposed to? instead it sits on the maximum voltage... Ive noticed this after my mechanic replaced the o2 sensor but want to confirm if it is linked to. O2 sensor cost me $100, not keen to buy another to check... Another problem which i think is also linked to it is if i turn on the car when the engine is hot (turn on engine after 10mins of turning off) The car starts misfiring, revs start fluctuating between 400-800 and the timing retards it self quite heavily as soon as i take off. Once i pass 3000rpm in first gear the pulling feeling goes away and the car returns to normal... This also occured after the o2 sensor replacement, but want to confirm if this is all linked to it... Would love any help Cheers

Hey, When i had my standard rb20 turbo with full exhaust and intercooler, the only boost control i had was the factory rb20 actuator. With this setup it would leak/spike to about 13psi (from the factory 10psi setting) This was most likely due to the larger exhaust flow making it creep up to 13psi. Even using a manual bleed valve, it wasnt able to go below 13psi... After i put in a hks2530 with the same rb20 actuator, it spikes now to 15psi... Is there any reason why it isnt holding itself at 10psi? Plenty of r33 owners put on rb20 actuators on their car's and hold 10psi..mine seem to be all over the place haha. Im pretty sure the wastegate flap was checked to see if its not getting caught on the dump pipe (as it is a split style) So yeah, is it normal for it to spike to 15psi on standard actuator? Car will eventually be tuned to 17-18psi using a manual bleed valve. Thanks

the track was sprayed by a truck but due to the hot weather it would dry up before the truck would come around again. nisskid is right about the rim sizes, afterall they were his old set Hopefully ill be able to squeeze some 255/40's under the rear guards...

haha nah i didnt hit the tyres thankfully Got about 90 photos taking up about 500mb space